The Druids Duck Hunt

[Stock]

Sweet work as always Druid....

[v8druid]

Sweet work as always Druid....

Why thank you kind Sir ............. what yer after blagging

[Muz]

See that pic you posted where the slag lifts off the weld ... Ive always wondered if the main reason for that was good quality steel ?, as when ever I've had it, its always been a perfect stick weld too. Strangely, its only happened with metal from a few machines such as Kubota, not that they've needed welding very often.

I'm sure it must be down to the rod flux more often (or as much) what do you think ? Ive laid plenty of decent welds, and the slag has been a pig to get off for example ?

[Stock]

Why thank you kind Sir ............. what yer after blagging

Maybe a cup of scald and a currant bun if Iget over your way..............

[v8druid]

See that pic you posted where the slag lifts off the weld ... Ive always wondered if the main reason for that was good quality steel ?, as when ever I've had it, its always been a perfect stick weld too. Strangely, its only happened with metal from a few machines such as Kubota, not that they've needed welding very often.

I'm sure it must be down to the rod flux more often (or as much) what do you think ? Ive laid plenty of decent welds, and the slag has been a pig to get off for example ?

That's a damned good question Muz and one I must confess to not having a definitive answer to.
A perfect run - penetration, spread, bead width, no undercut, right presentation of rod, good steady hand and eye, on good material, will almost certainly produce the same, time after time and then you get the odd one that's a ba****d to de-scale - could well be down to material. You certainly don't get 'em 'surrender' on rough old stuff, for sure - too much inclusion of contaminants.
Certainly the better and cleaner the steel the easier they de-scale - generally!

[v8druid]

Maybe a cup of scald and a currant bun if Iget over your way..............

You might have to make do with some of Pam's home made cakes mate ......... if there's any left - she makes a mean Brownie, lemon cake, Bakewell tart, Victoria sponge, coffee, date & walnut, choc sponge, cup cakes, etc., etc.. I ought to be the size of a house, but I've struggled to put weight back on since being ill

Kettle is always warm mate an' yer's always welcome!!

[v8druid]

I threatened to do it – so got out my lil’ MIG .
180 A on 240v – British built unit I had off an old customer, donkey’s ago – he’d had it a while, but couldn’t get on with it.
Bit unfair really to awaken it from its slumbers and ask it for full volume, but it did real well.
Another 20 amps would’ve been nice, but just backed the wire feed off a bit to give it more of a spray for penetration’s sake.

Must be 5 or 6 years since it was last plugged in – used to use it on my old RR classics, for panel and chassis repairs/work. It came with a lovely lil’ Tweco 150 A torch– finger and thumb job if you want to – could write with it!!

Thought I’d better stick something better on, so screwed a Binzel MB250 onto the Euroconnector and a roll of 0.8 - away to go!!





Was going very well and so much quickler; had the last 3 inch pass to do on the weave and it suddenly made a strange noise over my right shoulder, where it was sat in a box doorway – flipped my mask just in time to see this humungous cloud of white smoke/steam?? Emanating from yon MIG and doorway!

Leapt up and went to knock it off, by which time it’d stopped issuing forth from the cabinet and returned to a normal sound??????

The smog cleared and I whipped off the side panel (on 2 Zeus fasteners). The inside of the panel was covered in this jelly like substance (& missing its paint!!!) and the smoothing capacitor, across the rectifier, was looking a tad hot. The top seal had split around the edge of it and presumably launched it guts at the panel– so that’s where the jelly’d come from !!

Anyway, thought sod it – “in for a penny”, etc. and switched it back, on with the side cover off and watched for a minute – now’t – so struck an arc – no prob.s!
Only had 3 more inches to do, so I charged on.
If anything it was a better arc and more beans!!!!

Finished off, cleaned up the MIG, promising it a new capacitor soon, put it away and ground the braces/spreaders off, once it’d cooled off a bit.



Flipped it back over onto its bottom with the forks and stuck the pins in it to give it a try for a fit!



Looked pretty fair I thought and had some nice angles full either way. Wasn’t gonna be much escaping from there!!



Some of you may disagree with the next move ........



........but this is more use to me with an edge, than toothed



I’ve got a 4 foot toothed, that came with the ‘Drema and if I ever manage to find some Bofors teeth, I’ll have that beast of an Akerman 3 footer too. I could always bolt these Geiths back on, if I ever wanted to, ATM, but I’ve ‘plans’ for this ‘un, ultimately.



I'm also considering adding a.n.other edge to/under this and extending the side cheeks to support it, giving me a longer toe-ed bucket

Finished off the day with a quick coat of HBZP – looks a different bucket eh?

[v8druid]

a bit of tweaking

techy question for you guys - The 'Drema runs a Deutz BF4M 1013 .... pretty similar to this ....





I've considered since I've had her that 'idle' had been very high.


The auto throttle on her has 5 settings - idle, standby, low, med and high


Idle is ???? rpm
standby is 1400 rpm
low is 1700 rpm
medium is 2000 rpm
high is 2300 rpm


According to the 'bible' that I had with her and the PDF version I've since obtained.


Having recently acquired a new non contact, laser tacho (having failed to find me old one? ....... and given up ) I thought I'd check it out, after I'd finished clearing the decks & benches off today, in readiness for a few days 'forecast' dry weather and in anticipation of some shed construction on said benches.


Any way the new tacho showed idle at 1430 rpm - way over where I'd expected it to be and obviously above standby, which was registering at 1800.


the actuator is electric/hydraulic - press the switch to select desired speed, which sets a hydraulic servo to move one o' they mega expensive ball track type push/pull cables - used to have 'em on the cranes - £1000 a pop (but they were long 'uns) !


So, slacked off the cable mounts at the motor end and dropped the idle back to just over 800 rpm which sounded fine to me, but was giving the fuel filter bracket a seriously hard time so picked it up to 840, which still sounded pretty good and the filter was now sitting much more happily on its bracket.


Standby however is now a gnats under 1500 and low a similar gnats under 1800.


My thoughts are that the control cable is holding the idle speed at the setting, instead of the idle adjuster screw on the throttle arm on the governor and any 'play' in the cable. ....... it doesn't need a lot to make the difference in engine speed, when it's actuated to standby/low/med/high.


Before I set idle on the governor body screw and lose the minuscule amount of tension taking up the slack in the actuator cable, which IMHDO is causing the raised readings/settings at S/L/M/H I'd just like some opinions as to what idle should be for this motor. Not had one of these before and my ear says the 840 sounds sweet enough as an idle speed?


I'm sure one o' you guys out there will have had experience of these motors and know what idle should be, before I resort to trying to get the info. from my least favourite source.

[Muz]

No experience of that particular motor, but most my ones that have digi tacho's on them show 1000 -1200 for idle speed. I guess its down to avoiding a stall if you pull on a service, and no doubt will be related to the fuel consumption figures of that engine, I know I have moved the idle speed around with some of my dumpers to stop heavy vibration of the engine at idle speed too.

[v8druid]

No experience of that particular motor, but most my ones that have digi tacho's on them show 1000 -1200 for idle speed. I guess its down to avoiding a stall if you pull on a service, and no doubt will be related to the fuel consumption figures of that engine, I know I have moved the idle speed around with some of my dumpers to stop heavy vibration of the engine at idle speed too.

One of the boys 'elsewhere' gave me these today - God knows how he finds these things - I'd looked and hadn't

" Minimum idle is 800RPM according to this document; http://www.fd-engine.com/PDF/1013.pdf

And 600RPM according to this one; http://www.deutz.co.za/pdf_documents...ial%5B1%5D.pdf "

I cranked her up earlier, cold and she was at 700, smooth enough, but did not sound 'right'. Picked it up to 800, but still had the horrible resonance so took it up to 840 and it all settled again.
Will have to wait 'til I have a chance to get her warm again, to see where it settles to, but guessing 1000 rpm, based on yesterdays performance and the fact she was down 150 rpm cold.


Bit of a quandary now, as to how to set it. Could set it again warm and use the 'standby' setting whilst she warms up?

Must admit it's nice to have her sat idling properly, than revving like it was - never sounded right !

.

[v8druid]

Curious that the two PDFs give differing idle settings, for the same motor???

Mine's a plain 1013 - integral cooling pack and no charge air inter-cooler for the turbo.


This is damned near my set up ..... cooling radiator and oil cooler built on the back of the motor and ram air duct-ed from the fan





At 800 rpm though she's dancing enough to shake the fuel filter body mount badly (enough resonance to cause a failure of the bracket in a short period). At 840 she's smoothed out nicely.
Didn't try taking her lower than 800 yesterday as it sounded 'stally', if I ventured below that, as I found earlier on cold start.




The high rev. level certainly accounts for how she used to 'burst into life' at the touch of the key and her liking for cherry - always thought IMHDO it was way too high and have been reluctant to 'fiddle', but armed with the new Tacho, it had to be looked at.

In fairness it started very well from cold and I believe these motors' management have a cold start setting built in. Now't on't key!!

[Muz]

My Kubota 8's and 5's and a 3 tonne Neuson dumper I have, all drop by about 300ish rpm after about 4-5 minutes running from a cold start .. without any intervention. So clearly the ECU is mapped to allow a slightly higher RPM initially .. could it be that thats causing the discrepancy ?

[v8druid]

My Kubota 8's and 5's and a 3 tonne Neuson dumper I have, all drop by about 300ish rpm after about 4-5 minutes running from a cold start .. without any intervention. So clearly the ECU is mapped to allow a slightly higher RPM initially .. could it be that thats causing the discrepancy ?

Unlikely Muz as she's down 150 rpm on cold start today - I'd expect it to be up around 900 if the management was giving issue.
PITA being that much lower, cold to hot though.

All that said - I have yet to set the idle stop screw on the governor housing to it's correct position - the throttle cable is still holding the idle position, so there're all sorts of variables 'in play' ...... heat/mechanical expansion, cold/hot oil, etc..
The movement required to alter 150rpm is minuscule.
The only sure fire way is the body stop screw, set correctly warm, then see how it is cold.

Also be interesting to see just where the stop screw is set currently as it has a paint blob seal on it