Converting Kubota Kx080 from rubbers to steel tracks

[Muz]

This machine has been shredding rubber tracks so Ive decided to convert it to steels. Its a simple swap, but I need to fit track guides. The problem being that the bolt holes have rusted up, and I dont have a 14mm metric fine tap to clean them out, so the decision was made to bore out the old holes and re tap them for M16 Bolts. I really wanted a 14.5 mm hole to tap, but the closest cutter I had was 15mm.


It should hold ok, but I think I'm going to run a weld down each outside edge of the guide just to be safe ... that way .. if the guide needs to come off, it will be easy enough to grind it off.

[245dlc]

I always wondered how long rubber tracks would last on a machine as big as a 8 tonner I guess now I know.

[Muz]

Well a lot depends on the track OEM's were Bridgestones and lasted an age .. but the the last few Ive been using were Terratrak .. which are not very good

[v8druid]

This machine has been shredding rubber tracks so Ive decided to convert it to steels. Its a simple swap, but I need to fit track guides. The problem being that the bolt holes have rusted up, and I dont have a 14mm metric fine tap to clean them out, so the decision was made to bore out the old holes and re tap them for M16 Bolts. I really wanted a 14.5 mm hole to tap, but the closest cutter I had was 15mm.


It should hold ok, but I think I'm going to run a weld down each outside edge of the guide just to be safe ... that way .. if the guide needs to come off, it will be easy enough to grind it off.

14mm would've done yer ok Muz ........ you need one of these for the clean up ..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Evolution-...item35e64e85a6



Had one for years and must've lost it in the move somewhere, as I had to buy a new one earlier this year .... save a lot of splinters

See teh bottle's working well ...... watch you don't get any run back into the motor ...... they don't like it a lot!!

[Muz]

14mm would've done yer ok Muz ........ you need one of these for the clean up ..... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Evolution-...item35e64e85a6



Had one for years and must've lost it in the move somewhere, as I had to buy a new one earlier this year .... save a lot of splinters

See teh bottle's working well ...... watch you don't get any run back into the motor ...... they don't like it a lot!!

Hmm /.. so you rekon a 14mm hole for M16 ... fook rekon the wee weld will save the day then .. must say the M16's went well tight and I put some lok tite on em too

[v8druid]

Hmm /.. so you rekon a 14mm hole for M16 ... fook rekon the wee weld will save the day then .. must say the M16's went well tight and I put some lok tite on em too

M16 x 2mm is a 14mm hole Muz - handy chart here for yer ....... http://www.shender4.com/metric_thread_chart.htm
I still have my Dormer Tap and Drill nomenclature book in me tool box as easier than dashing to the 'puter to eyeball

I doubt that yer's gonna have any trouble with 4 x M16s holding that on, weld, or no weld - some shake-proofs under the heads'd make sure though!!
Mag drill's the bollox eh, for jobs like that

[Muz]

Mag drill's the bollox eh, for jobs like that

Aye done the job good thanks to your input fella I should have bought one years ago

I think I'm in for trouble then on those thread sizes though thats only going to get 0.5 mm grip either side which is what I feared .. and wondered ho well .. better look out some M18 bolts and a 16 cutter

[v8druid]

Aye done the job good thanks to your input fella I should have bought one years ago

I think I'm in for trouble then on those thread sizes though thats only going to get 0.5 mm grip either side which is what I feared .. and wondered ho well .. better look out some M18 bolts and a 16 cutter

Rocking horse shit!!!!!!

M20 and be done IIRC 17.5 on the tapping drill or can you get a nut t'other side of the plate?

[Muz]

Well I though about it.. and just decided to keep going with the drills and bolts I had .. put the second set of guides on and they bolted up hard as hell .. so I think they should be ok

Needless to say all the side plates needed drilling as well to accept the bigger bolts

[Muz]

Then I discovered I couldn't get the new steel tracks on ... wondered if they were a pad too short as I couldn't get them to link.. and of course it then dawned on me .. that this machine has been stuck on rubbers for 7 years, the tensioning pistons would likely be seized



this is as it came out stuck solid



this is what it looks like after a new rod fitted

[Muz]

I also noticed one of the seals was damaged ( because I had shoved the rusty old piston back into the cylinder .. not brutally because as I was aware of the issue, but just enough to damage the vital O ring)



So I replaced that .. as it is a lot of work to get one of these units out if you need to .. you can see the rough face on the inside of the ring ..

that would never re seal

I called the dealer for a couple of new pistons rods, @ £100 each but realised my local machine shop had some chrome bar on the shelf and after a call at 9am he had 2 of 70mm by 225mm chamfered cuts ready for me by 10:30 and both for £140 West of Scotland Engineering

http://westofscotlandengineering.co.uk/

Big shout for the lads

You can see an old one here and even after a full buffing and clean , it just had to be binned .. well 'saved' for some other project .. not much gets binned round here

[AndrewMawson]

They look to be a very useful outfit to have close by

Will that chromed bar corrode where the chamfers have been turned, or is it something rather special ?

[Muz]

They look to be a very useful outfit to have close by

Will that chromed bar corrode where the chamfers have been turned, or is it something rather special ?

Ach .. Ive known those lads for many years ..

Good question about the rod .. it all looked the same to me .. in that I couldnt see any variation in material ... if its a high grade .. it may not rust , I dont know what its actually made of, but the machine shop said its quite expensive stuff. Theres no doubt the genuine Kubota ones were quite rotten, so must be pretty basic steel with a light chrome cover ?

I do see this issue, even with rams in regular use where the chrome is bubbling off .. so your question is of great interest

[v8druid]

Then I discovered I couldnt get the new steel tracks on ... wondered if the were a pad too short as I could get them to link.. and ofcourse it then dawned on me .. that this machine has been stuck on rubbers for 7 years, the tensioning pistons would likely be seized



this is as it came out stuck solid



this is what it looks like after a new rod fitted

So how'd you get the rod out????? or was the covered bit in better nick?

[v8druid]

Ach .. Ive known those lads for many years ..

Good question about the rod .. it all looked the same to me .. in that I couldnt see any variation in material ... if its a high grade .. it may not rust , I dont know what its actually made of, but the machine shop said its quite expensive stuff. Theres no doubt the genuine Kubota ones were quite rotten, so must be pretty basic steel with a light chrome cover ?

I do see this issue, even with rams in regular use where the chrome is flaking off .. so your question is of great interest

You sure that's chromed Muz? Looks like polished BDMS EN10 or 12 to me ?? can't see any difference between the parent material and 'the chrome'? Would deffo expect to see a definition between each, on the chamfer???

I'd be plastering that lot in grease, when it goes back in, to keep your lovely Scottish weather at bay!!

Looks a good job though mate