Ukjays International 620 Digger

[Ukjay]

Yes, definitely going to go removable route - as I am no doubt going to have to remove the whole unit at some point in the future, so plan ahead they say.
Now going to try and find a steel stockist to get my bits

Jay

[v8druid]

need to find a little fabricator locally, who'll flog you a few bits Boyo ...... used to get loads of folks in for bits an' bobs for their lil' projects

a stockholder's gonna want to flog you lengths.

[Ukjay]

need to find a little fabricator locally, who'll flog you a few bits Boyo ...... used to get loads of folks in for bits an' bobs for their lil' projects

a stockholder's gonna want to flog you lengths.

Well, pocket is even emptier now, rummaged through the suppliers offcut bins - sourced some of what I needed (and some bits for the what if's), but had to buy a length of 100x100 as they only had one small piece

Then went and bought some taps, drill bits to suit and boxes of bolts (they came in 100's), so will go into the collection for when the workshop gets built

Anywho, now going to degrease and clean all the surfaces, ready for the mock up fabrication fitting prior to final welding. Need to find my metal cut saw now - will be in some box from when we moved

Will update with some during / after shots once completed.

Jay

[v8druid]

Well, pocket is even emptier now, rummaged through the suppliers offcut bins - sourced some of what I needed (and some bits for the what if's), but had to buy a length of 100x100 as they only had one small piece

Then went and bought some taps, drill bits to suit and boxes of bolts (they came in 100's), so will go into the collection for when the workshop gets built

Anywho, now going to degrease and clean all the surfaces, ready for the mock up fabrication fitting prior to final welding. Need to find my metal cut saw now - will be in some box from when we moved

Will update with some during / after shots once completed.

Jay

That'll have hurt ....... 120 quid , plus the Vodka & Tonic????


Don't forget to shim that drive tube up a tad, in case it ain't been set square and a bit of a trial with some decent stitches, 'fore yer get all excited with the hot stick ...... oh and plenty of pix too Boyo ..... we all love plenty of pix

be better than new, 'fore yer know it

[Ukjay]

That'll have hurt ....... 120 quid , plus the Vodka & Tonic????

Your on the money with that one Graham - to the exact penny

Don't forget to shim that drive tube up a tad, in case it ain't been set square and a bit of a trial with some decent stitches, 'fore yer get all excited with the hot stick ...... oh and plenty of pix too Boyo ..... we all love plenty of pix

be better than new, 'fore yer know it

Degreased the unit earlier - and there is virtually no movement in the unit by using my hands / force to see if it rocks. Will have to look at using some mechanical lifting aid option to see if I can raise it enough to get some shims in:

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Conundrum is how much shim I should use - as obviously I am not certain what is actually inside that motor housing, so gap imho needs to be quite tight to prevent excessive grease / fluid release?

The design of the bridging part is going to be using 80 x 80 x 6mm angle, as there was no option for a disc being cut (and I am not in posession of OA or a Plasma Cutter yet, so - the 100 x 100 x 6 SHS bridge, will have the Angle welded along it's sides to match the Top Flange of the motor - then I will bolt this down to the Flange, using 12mm HT bolts.

This will then be bolted to the uprights / support stays using 12mm HT Bolts, drilled through two 100 x 20mm flange faces that will be welded onto the ends of the SHS bridge beam, with the view of being removable for repair / maintenance.

Jay

[v8druid]

"curiouser and curiouser" !!????



that's deffo a weld above those numbers ..... but WTF are they??????

the two edges / faces that rotate against each other look pretty distressed/burred.

the main reason for my suggesting shimming it up a tad for assembly only is in case those edges aren't perfect and end up jamming up or grinding against each other .... as they look to have done already, previously.
the shims come out once you have it all back in position and firm ..... I'd suggest less, but might not be enough?

A little grease loss is 'live-able' with and could always create a gaiter if you had to


I am really intrigued by those numbers

TBH Jay ....... if it were mine ........ it'd be in bits by now, to see just WTF I was dealing with ..... but that's me !!


Where are you again??????

[Ukjay]

"curiouser and curiouser" !!????



that's deffo a weld above those numbers ..... but WTF are they??????

the two edges / faces that rotate against each other look pretty distressed/burred.

the main reason for my suggesting shimming it up a tad for assembly only is in case those edges aren't perfect and end up jamming up or grinding against each other .... as they look to have done already, previously.
the shims come out once you have it all back in position and firm ..... I'd suggest less, but might not be enough?

A little grease loss is 'live-able' with and could always create a gaiter if you had to


I am really intrigued by those numbers

TBH Jay ....... if it were mine ........ it'd be in bits by now, to see just WTF I was dealing with ..... but that's me !!


Where are you again??????

Hi Graham

It is a strange old thing - to be admired for the ingenuity at least It must have been owned by someone from a nautical background at one point in time, as there is reference to Port / Starboard for the diesel and hydraulic fluid tanks location in the cab, so maybe a dock yard mod

I will try and get a better photo, as the jaggy look is actually grease - as I didn't want to go to far in between the mating surfaces. Both surfaces have a chamfer.

As for taking it to bits, I would love too, but with limited working area currently, best delayed until I get myself a semi decent work area rigged up or I will be in the dog house again - and another reason why it is going the bolt on brace method.

I have also been pondering where the grease goes, as there are no nipples to pack more in, and the top will cover the hydraulic motor - so I can only think you need to remove the whole unit and then invert it to pack in the grease I can see the oil filling point and subsequent drain on the side - any idea of oil type?

[v8druid]

Hi Graham

It is a strange old thing - to be admired for the ingenuity at least It must have been owned by someone from a nautical background at one point in time, as there is reference to Port / Starboard for the diesel and hydraulic fluid tanks location in the cab, so maybe a dock yard mod

I will try and get a better photo, as the jaggy look is actually grease - as I didn't want to go to far in between the mating surfaces. Both surfaces have a chamfer.

As for taking it to bits, I would love too, but with limited working area currently, best delayed until I get myself a semi decent work area rigged up or I will be in the dog house again - and another reason why it is going the bolt on brace method.

I have also been pondering where the grease goes, as there are no nipples to pack more in, and the top will cover the hydraulic motor - so I can only think you need to remove the whole unit and then invert it to pack in the grease I can see the oil filling point and subsequent drain on the side - any idea of oil type?

Well it was in Devon a while back ....... it's a brilliant bit of codgery and 'out of the box' thinking for sure

sounds like it's quite possible that there is some form of mate face in that grease gap ... all the more reason to get it bang on and i'd guess you're bang on with the pre-pack for the grease .... your g/box at the bottom is almost certainly ep80/90 IMHDO , as my best guess'd be a conventional square mesh gear set in there driving the pinion


as for those numbers ........ if that is an old hyd cylinder, creatively re-located to a new home/use, it's possible that they relate to it's previous use?

Looking forward to the next installment ........ and it's eventual discovery of its origins ..... perhaps , one day

[Ukjay]

Hi Folks,

Small update for yers:

I thankfully managed to get all the Pigeon Shite off the top Plate and the back part of the chassis - removing the rust to see what I am working with as a base platform.
Judging by the scoring etc on the plate surface - this was a make shift top section from a piece of thick plate, so not part of the genuine Rusty Bullet Chassis!

After said cleaning / de-burring, I then set out the first piece of Angle to form part of the removable bridging beam. First step was to lay the angle over the top of the plate, then scribe the underside to allow me to cut and fettle the angle to fit the plate as near as I could:

Underside of Angle showing the scribe mark and first couple of cuts with trusty 4 1/2" angle grinder and 1mm cutting disc
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Once happy that I had removed enough material to allow further fettling with linishing pad, to grade the angle to nearly the exact dimension (leaving a bit to allow final linish once bolted down):

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Now came the set up for drilling the holes for the removable brace. Fortunately there was already a hole in the centre of the top plate to allow me to scribe a new line on the Angle to ensure my holes would be equi distance from the flange edge

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Went through with a 5 mm pilot drill bit first, then changed to the 10.2mm for the M12 Tap (obviously I drilled the Angle first - then offered it up to the plate to mark holes then proceeded to drill through the plate to allow tapping of the M12 holes:

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Unfortunately, due to the existing holes, and the webbing of the flange plate - I could only get 3 holes for the bolts, so I will modify the design slightly to add a bolt into the side of the flat edge of the plate. Will also add some resistance to twisting / rotation force. Also - I will have to plug the left hand redundant hole left by the previous bodger - as I wish to add some strength around the new hole, so plug and weld me finks

Angle drilled to accept M12 bolts:

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That's all I can do for today, as it started to Thunder and then the rain came in

20160827_153536.jpg

[v8druid]

looking good Jay ..... are you going to repeat the process t'other side of the box section bridge ... it'd give you another 3 or 4 additional holes and an equal level of support for the unit.

could also, as you say fit a location strip on edge under the bridge and spanning the two angles, welded to them all, for an anti- rotation datum/detent, with the 'flat' on that top plate, but TBH those bolts are gonna have to take some sort of load before they ever let go in shear. IIRC M12 x grade 8.8s are circa 8 tons shear loading.

As for the rain ...... **** me ..... did it ever come down ..... like a drowned rat this afters, clearing the jungle, up by our water tanks, ready for an assault with the 'drema

[Ukjay]

looking good Jay ..... are you going to repeat the process t'other side of the box section bridge ... it'd give you another 3 or 4 additional holes and an equal level of support for the unit.

could also, as you say fit a location strip on edge under the bridge and spanning the two angles, welded to them all, for an anti- rotation datum/detent, with the 'flat' on that top plate, but TBH those bolts are gonna have to take some sort of load before they ever let go in shear. IIRC M12 x grade 8.8s are circa 8 tons shear loading.

As for the rain ...... **** me ..... did it ever come down ..... like a drowned rat this afters, clearing the jungle, up by our water tanks, ready for an assault with the 'drema

Hi Graham

Yes - the plan is to repeat the same the other side, but a lot more fettling to do that side, as the diameter of the top plate is 267mm - therefore not sure as of yet how many bolts will fit around the existing bolts etc, so may have to come up with another plan if it does not look to give the strength I need.

I have a river in my garden now - the spring is overflowing through all the rain, but at least the muts like it:

Dogs in Brook.jpg

[v8druid]

Hi Graham

Yes - the plan is to repeat the same the other side, but a lot more fettling to do that side, as the diameter of the top plate is 267mm - therefore not sure as of yet how many bolts will fit around the existing bolts etc, so may have to come up with another plan if it does not look to give the strength I need.

I have a river in my garden now - the spring is overflowing through all the rain, but at least the muts like it:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3248[/ATTACH]

Tell me about it

last Sunday

Friday morning

this afternoon



Gonna take ages to disappear!!
a good foot deep at the back

[Ukjay]

What you need to there Graham - is use that Twin Wall you have stashed in the background to make a culvert / gulley system to drain the water. Get yer digga out man

[v8druid]

What you need to there Graham - is use that Twin Wall you have stashed in the background to make a culvert / gulley system to drain the water. Get yer digga out man

there're two land drains there Jay, one under the area of clean stone in the centre of the pic and another to the left out of shot, at the bottom of the batter .... both a good 3 ft deep ... 6" pipe in the bottom and full of clean 40mm lime stone.
I'm reluctant to put in any channels to join to them ...... and fill 'em with shite ..... till I've gotten some hardcore/crush on top of everything ..... to keep the shite in place ....... but may have to, if this wetness keeps up

[Ukjay]

Hi Peep's

Small update on the repair. First off - I have to own up here for the purists out there who may crucify me for daring this feat with such a tool

I have had to use a Mig Welder for the mock up unfortunately, as my Arc Kit has not apparently formed part of the package that arrived at our new home!!

There will be another Arc Welder on order once I decide which way to go (was bidding on a nice Arc kit that I could have collected this morning if successful, but missed it by £5 Dohh). Obviously the new unit will not be here in a reasonable time to allow me to crack on with getting Rusty back in working order, but 'If' the welds look as though they will not last - at least all the hard work has been done and I can simply cut and shut with the Arc in the future, so for the ones who may not approve - I know it is not the best route to this repair, but it is all I had at my disposal

Anyhoo - lets move on and see what we have been up to today before the Heavens opened up on me again!!

Worked on the Angle first off to set out the brace beam fixing to the plate:

Finished off the drilling and tapping of the first section:

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Then moved onto t'other side - Place Angel on Top Flange Plate, Scribe, Mark Top Plate to Show where Bolts will go, Cut Angle, Grind and Drill :

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Next I offered the 100mm SHS again to ensure all is well


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All good thus far

Next I went onto making the Bridging Structure.

First off was to cut up some 4 x 1/2 plate (decided not to go down the 20mm plate route as my cut saw could not cope ), to set out the plates that will be the fixing plates to allow removal of the Top Brace from the Fixed Chassis Support System. Scribe the layout of the required bolt holes, then Centre Punch, and drill 5mm Pilot Holes:

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Then I proceeded to drill through with 12mm drill bit to allow the Bolts to got through - then tested all was OK:

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I then moved onto fabricating the Upright Post to allow Mock Up and Test:

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Once happy it was All Aligned and at the correct Angles - I welded the Upright using higher end amps with 0.8 Wire and the 'V' pattern weld to allow the pool to penetrate deep into the joint:

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Once happy with the weld on the Upright, I then went on to weld the Flange Plate to the Upright and the Brace to ensure it did not warp and twist the fabrication (at this point - the brace is still free to move if any lateral movement happens and show if any twisting has happened in the set up thus far):

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Chassis Upright still true to set up - Motor will remain true as long as I maintain the current state:

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It has all gone OK thus far. More on next post.