Ukjays International 620 Digger

[Ukjay]

20160825_174142.jpg 20160825_174148.jpg

And whilst I am thinking on how to repair Rusty - I re-designed the flange that was braised to look like this:

20160825_120832.jpg 20160825_175052.jpg 20160825_175110.jpg

[Ukjay]

have a good look at the base of the anulus/body and see if it is, as I suspect, detached from the base plate/flange.

Hi Graham

just so that I am fully understanding you - what are you referring to by anulus / body, as the only things rotating currently is the top section. When restrained - the middle chamber of the slew drive rotates?

[v8druid]

Hmmmmmm!!
not as I remember it, but then that's a pretty comprehensive set of pix !! just to be a PITA ... have you got a shot of the complete turret?
Beginning to wonder if this has been 'doctored, with a non OE motor, 'made to fit'?

that tower looks to have a weld around it just above the ring of grease


and one running top to bottom like a seam?


WTF has the one side been sliced off the motor too? Maybe even machined off?????? ... but looks more like a disc job


Some sort of reduction box at the base (the lower casing) .... guessing it's the bearing carrier for the pinion shaft


and guessing the upper turret is maybe not an epicyclic reduction after all?

You may need to 'delve' a bit Jay and see just what you're dealing with ?

Couldn't make out the lower casing in the first pix and has somewhat scuppered my initial idea, but still thinking on it!

Pound to a pinch of pig shit that it ain't 'sposed to ooze grease from that grease ring line ?

[v8druid]

Hi Graham

just so that I am fully understanding you - what are you referring to by anulus / body, as the only things rotating currently is the top section. When restrained - the middle chamber of the slew drive rotates?

Right ..... makes my thoughts even more likely/possible
track drive (?) doctored to replace a dead slew motor.
the bodged bracketry holds the motor stationary .... the original motor flange provides a lower bearing carrier
jay's.jpg

and the central rotating piece takes the drive from the motor, to possibly the original motor's spindle, attached inside it .. tube looks mysteriously like an old hyd cylinder and end cap, suitably modded????
certainly explains the grease ring?

Canny solution to 'a problem' ...... might even be an old winch motor, but looks like it has a hub type of driven flange with a.n.other flange under it cobbled to the driven tube .... clever, but couldn't weld for shit !!

[Ukjay]

Right ..... makes my thoughts even more likely/possible
track drive (?) doctored to replace a dead slew motor.
the bodged bracketry holds the motor stationary .... the original motor flange provides a lower bearing carrier
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3228[/ATTACH]

and the central rotating piece takes the drive from the motor, to possibly the original motor's spindle, attached inside it .. tube looks mysteriously like an old hyd cylinder and end cap, suitably modded????
certainly explains the grease ring?

Canny solution to 'a problem' ...... might even be an old winch motor, but looks like it has a hub type of driven flange with a.n.other flange under it cobbled to the driven tube .... clever, but couldn't weld for shit !!

Out of all the above - this bit has made me piss myself laughing:

clever, but couldn't weld for shit !!

Anyhoo - what are your thoughts here, am I gonna get all dirty and swear a lot

Am I right in thinking that the modification has raised the motor to where it is now, when originally it would have been a lot lower and fixed to the bottom section?

[v8druid]

hi Jay
just found Doug Tricket's pix of her in Devon, 13th Aug, 2012
digger 042.jpg

digger 044.jpg

digger 045.jpg

and shows the drive unit, complete with bodgery

and here's a pic of another one with a 'real' drive unit .....

$T2eC16JHJGQE9noMZNFiBQs0qYQzjg~~60_58.JPG

similar, but appears to be a motor enclosed in a casing ?

could be a way to go ...... sort of????

[Ukjay]

hi Jay
just found Doug Tricket's pix of her in Devon, 13th Aug, 2012
[ATTACH=CONFIG]3229[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3230[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3231[/ATTACH]

and shows the drive unit, complete with bodgery

and here's a pic of another one with a 'real' drive unit .....

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3232[/ATTACH]

similar, but appears to be a motor enclosed in a casing ?

could be a way to go ...... sort of????

Thanks Graham,

The bodge is as good as it was back then, whereby I feel due to the slop in all the bushes continuing the motion forces as you stop turning, the shitty welding finally gave up the ghost on me (and from what I can see the previous owner too by the looks of things)

I suppose the next step is to try and find rocking horse doo doo, as finding information on the motor / one that will fit on is going to be nigh on impossible I would have thought, so gonna be a Hybrid kind of job one would assume.

[v8druid]

Out of all the above - this bit has made me piss myself laughing:

Originally Posted by v8druid
clever, but couldn't weld for shit !!


Anyhoo - what are your thoughts here, am I gonna get all dirty and swear a lot

Am I right in thinking that the modification has raised the motor to where it is now, when originally it would have been a lot lower and fixed to the bottom section?

Well that made me LOL too mate

TBH I'm pretty sure that, as I said earlier this is a completely different motor that has been cobbled to fit and has obviously done a reasonable job for quite some time .. as you say ..... the crap welds just gave up the unending struggle !

With that in mind .... a better, tidier, more considered repair/improved mod will probably see the old girl do a few more shifts .... and some !!

What're yer like at fabricating
I've a few ideas .... pity you're not closer ..... be an interesting lil' challenge, but shouldn't take a great deal of sorting Boyo.

[Ukjay]

What're yer like at fabricating
I've a few ideas .... pity you're not closer ..... be an interesting lil' challenge, but shouldn't take a great deal of sorting Boyo.

I consider myself quite a hands on sort of person, with some background in the old engineering etc (mainly agricultural parts / hanger doors, formula ford engines, refacing heads, boring and sleeving blocks etc) - but that was quite some time ago now.

Skill wise - it is yet to be seen, so lets get our heads together and see what we can come up with then.
Remember though - I do not have a workshop in the new home, so everything is out in the open and limited heavy working tooling, as I do not want the equipment to go walkies.

Basically I am open to trying anything - everything is a learning day for me

Kind regards

Jay

[ianoz]

Well that made me LOL too mate

TBH I'm pretty sure that, as I said earlier this is a completely different motor that has been cobbled to fit and has obviously done a reasonable job for quite some time .. as you say ..... the crap welds just gave up the unending struggle !

With that in mind .... a better, tidier, more considered repair/improved mod will probably see the old girl do a few more shifts .... and some !!

What're yer like at fabricating
I've a few ideas .... pity you're not closer ..... be an interesting lil' challenge, but shouldn't take a great deal of sorting Boyo.

Well , chuck it back on a wagon and send it down to Druidfab PTY LTD,But be warned ,the current workshop roof leaks a bit , so you may have to wait 6 months for the next fine sunny day , for the fix to happen

[v8druid]

Thanks Graham,

The bodge is as good as it was back then, whereby I feel due to the slop in all the bushes continuing the motion forces as you stop turning, the shitty welding finally gave up the ghost on me (and from what I can see the previous owner too by the looks of things)

I suppose the next step is to try and find rocking horse doo doo, as finding information on the motor / one that will fit on is going to be nigh on impossible I would have thought, so gonna be a Hybrid kind of job one would assume.

What's it like for slop/centrality at the grease line Jay. Obviously that bit rotates about the lower 'old flange', so shouldn't really be resting on it completely.
It's obviously also been solidly mounted for years, so repeating the process .... only with a bit more finesse perhaps, should see the old girl back digging PDQ.

Firstly have a check to see if there's any 'lift' at that grease line .... after you've cleaned it off enough to get a good view of proceedings?

If there is .... Id give it perhaps a mil of shimming to support it temporarily, in three points about the circumference and check several other spots with a feeler gauge, to see if it's all pretty even.
if it's all 'hunky dory', you can create some better supporting brackets to attach to that top plate on the motor.
perhaps a horizontal that bridges between the boom ram's support side plate (might have to extend it up a bit) and a new upright support off the deck plate, with a suitable brace to keep it rigid.

it's obviously never needed to be removable in the past, so just go for it and make it secure ...... can always cut it back off if necessary.
suggest something good and stiff for the bridge and support upright .... some decent thickness 100 x 50 box section perhaps, or 100 x 50 channel and maybe a bit of 50 x 50 box or angle to make a decent North/South brace for the upright.

A few decent tacks/stitches, sufficient to trial it to ensure that the rotating bits are performing properly, without distress, etc., then weld it up, a bit at a time ... bit here, bit there, etc. ..... spaced as far apart physically as possible. The structure should self brace as far as movement goes but heat distortion needs to be minimised by sequential welding .... no big runs in one hit ... inch here / there / etc., 'til it's all done/sufficiently for the job

'fraid paint's not the easiest to use for this but a rough idea for you ..... could do better with a pic from a more suitable angle ... like a bit above and behind

rough idea.jpg

main thing is get it central on the motor's spindle centre, provide decent support for that drive and sufficient bracing

[v8druid]

I consider myself quite a hands on sort of person, with some background in the old engineering etc (mainly agricultural parts / hanger doors, formula ford engines, refacing heads, boring and sleeving blocks etc) - but that was quite some time ago now.

Skill wise - it is yet to be seen, so lets get our heads together and see what we can come up with then.
Remember though - I do not have a workshop in the new home, so everything is out in the open and limited heavy working tooling, as I do not want the equipment to go walkies.

Basically I am open to trying anything - everything is a learning day for me

Kind regards

Jay

Excellent ..... you'll cope .... what're yer welding skills like? wivabirraplanning it can all be done down-hand (the easiest way)

It might need scaling up a bit .... size wise on the materials ... guessing at scale ATM ... what sort of diameter is that motor top plate and the driven body? I'm guessing 9" and 12" respectively? and pushing 36" high? so perhaps a 150 x 75 channel upright and a 100 x 50 RHS (box section) brace, with perhaps a 125 x 65 PFC (channel) bridge ??

At the end of the day Jay, as long as it's tidy and looks presentable .... yer's not working on a Lambo or Aston ........ but, yer's gorra be able to put yer name to it too

[Ukjay]

I was also thinking about doing this for a potentially removable future option:

slew motor.jpg

Reduces the potential for heat warping / stress - what are your thoughts?

Could also weld a mounting plate to the top to allow a removable steady for the other side too - to allow bolting also?

[v8druid]

I was also thinking about doing this for a potentially removable future option:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]3234[/ATTACH]

Reduces the potential for heat warping / stress - what are your thoughts?

Could also weld a mounting plate to the top to allow a removable steady for the other side too - to allow bolting also?

Aye or perhaps something along these lines .....

jay2.jpg

with a bolt in/on bridge each end as you suggest .... didn't know what your level of intricacy was at Boyo but any vertical supporting bolts'd need to be pretty fair tolerance to ensure support of the unit ..... or just the flat 'on plate' flanges .. do away with the vertical plates and bolts ..... by using the perimeter of the top plate you're pretty unlikely to encounter anything you shouldn't and can get plenty in to it, but'd guess 4 or 5 x M12s'd do it fine in each plate..... reduce the bridge material to 102 x 51 PFC or 100 x 100 x 6+ SHS (square box)

[v8druid]

or even one circular plate with the bridge welded on top of it ?

jay 3.jpg