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  • #1

    Problem with solder

    Ive noticed this solder Ive been using is crap

    IMG_1737.jpg

    It wont tin properly even when I use an additional wet flux .. Ive heard of some solders' being lead free now, but it says Sn40Pb on the label so I assumed it was a tin/lead alloy with flux in it ?

    Today I was repairing a reversing beacon on a dumper and I had to go find some old stuff to finish the job and it worked fine .. so what wrong with this stuff ?
    Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist
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  • #2
    http://www.mbouk.co.uk/pdf/wire_alloy.pdf

    look at the shelf life length...............
    A driven man with a burning passion.

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    • #3
      How can a metal have a shelf life ? .. is it the flux ?
      Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

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      • #4
        I believe so,
        I have always considered this the best flux..............http://www.solderconnection.com/prod...roduct_id=1184
        A driven man with a burning passion.

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        • #5
          I`m still using a roll of Multicore solder which is well over twenty years old.But I use flux as well and it`s at least as old.
          I do have problems with the modern (10yrs ?) leadfree stuff.A lot of the electronic problems on machines is caused by the early lead free solders.
          I used to dread having to solder something as although I can gas weld and braze very well I always struggled with solder.
          Then a guy brought me in a soldering iron from the skip at his wifes work which was closing.What a difference,soldering`s now a dawdle and I don`t think twice about it.

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          • #6
            Hey Muz when I'm working on electrical stuff especially with my model railroad I use rosin core solder and solder paste with it. I'd have to find my stuff to get a picture of it but from what I understand rosin core is meant for electrical or electronic type work. Maybe the stuff you have there is just from China so it's made from monkey metal?

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            • #7
              Well I think its a duff alloy .. but I dont know what is a good one and what isnt ? I only use solder on electrics when I dont have confidence in other types of joint for some reason or another .. Ive never had this problem before, Ive used the stuff for 35 years and never had solder that wouldnt 'run' into copper like this stuff wont
              Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

              Comment

              • #8
                How corroded or oxidized is the copper? When repairing underground waterlines, I have a hell of a time getting the solder to flow unless I use an acidic flux. The stuff I used is from Black Swan, but I'm not sure you have the same product names there. Ordinary paste flux is fine for almost all the solders I use, but when I switch to 95/5 I use the acidic stuff as it is persnickety with the lesser fluxes. Also, for really dirty copper, I spend a lot of time cleaning it with sandpaper and wire brushes. You'd be surprised how a little dirt will screw with your joints and create a pocket where the solder just won't flow. As far as "lead-free," I haven't had any more noticeable issues with either types.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by B4D2USA View Post
                  How corroded or oxidized is the copper? When repairing underground waterlines, I have a hell of a time getting the solder to flow unless I use an acidic flux. The stuff I used is from Black Swan, but I'm not sure you have the same product names there. Ordinary paste flux is fine for almost all the solders I use, but when I switch to 95/5 I use the acidic stuff as it is persnickety with the lesser fluxes. Also, for really dirty copper, I spend a lot of time cleaning it with sandpaper and wire brushes. You'd be surprised how a little dirt will screw with your joints and create a pocket where the solder just won't flow. As far as "lead-free," I haven't had any more noticeable issues with either types.
                  Yes .. I think what I'm saying is the solder is less tolerant of any oxidisation, there has been some times where a little has been present, and Ive had to pair back further up the wire to make the 'joint' but I dont remember it being as bad as this, so I put it down to the solder, as on the last occasion, I just changed to old multicore stuff and it worked fine, perhaps the flux 'in' the older solder was more aggressive ?

                  It shouldnt be neccessary to faff about with a 10 or 15 amp wire like this ... you think I need a more agressive external flux then ?

                  I take it 95/5 is lead free stuff ?

                  Funnily enough,.. I just checked my solder and flux that I use at home, the solder has no label but seems to work ok, but the Bernzomatic flux says its ideal for lead free solder .. I didnt know there was a difference ?
                  Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Muz, the 95/5 I used had a lower content of lead as I recall, but was not "lead-free." You can now get lead free 95/5. Most fluxes will work with it, especially now with them being lead free. The older stuff I had used a liquid acid flux that worked on a lot of difficult joints. Here's a few links for 95/5
                    http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/e...ders/95-5.aspx

                    http://www.pexsupply.com/Solder-430000

                    If the wires you are trying to solder don't get shiny copper colored, then there is too much oxidation to get a good flow of solder. I'd either replace the wire or use a crimp connector and heat shrink to seal the deal.

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