Dead Volvo EC15B, help and advice needed.

[Loucastel]

Hi everybody,
My first post on here, It's been great reading some of the advice on here.

But now I have a problem with my Volvo EC15B, a couple of weeks ago it wouldn't start just a clicking sound from the starter motor, however a friend of mine came and looked at it put a spare battery on it, and low and behold it started first turn, so I went and bought it a brand new battery. today the thing just died on me, no ignition lights, nothing, I have tried jumping it from a sprinter, checked all the fuses, but still zero, still no ignition lights, look like it has just died, I was wondering if anyone on here has had any similar experiences.
Any help and advice would be very welcome, Thanks in advance,

Lou

[Muz]

Hi everybody,
My first post on here, It's been great reading some of the advice on here.

But now I have a problem with my Volvo EC15B, a couple of weeks ago it wouldn't start just a clicking sound from the starter motor, however a friend of mine came and looked at it put a spare battery on it, and low and behold it started first turn, so I went and bought it a brand new battery. today the thing just died on me, no ignition lights, nothing, I have tried jumping it from a sprinter, checked all the fuses, but still zero, still no ignition lights, look like it has just died, I was wondering if anyone on here has had any similar experiences.
Any help and advice would be very welcome, Thanks in advance,

Lou

Welcome to the forum The starter on that machine is a pain in the ass to get to behind the engine so start with the simple things first. The machine will only start with the left console raised, so make sure there isnt a fault with the micro switch that controls that, at the the console hinge, sometimes the switch gets stuck in. If its not that, I'd check that the multiplug on the bottom of the ignition switch is still connected ok, try those first.

[Loucastel]

Welcome to the forum The starter on that machine is a pain in the ass to get to behind the engine so start with the simple things first. The machine will only start with the left console raised, so make sure there isnt a fault with the micro switch that controls that, at the the console hinge, sometimes the switch gets stuck in. If its not that, I'd check that the multiplug on the bottom of the ignition switch is still connected ok, try those first.

Hi Muz and thanks, have checked those things all seem ok, What I can't understand is zero lights on the ignition panel even when connected to my Sprinter, I thought that would have put some life into it.

[Muz]

Hi Muz and thanks, have checked those things all seem ok, What I can't understand is zero lights on the ignition panel even when connected to my Sprinter, I thought that would have put some life into it.

Not if something is hanging off from the underside of the ignition switch

[v8druid]

Hi Lou and welcome along to a great forum.

Completely back to total basics first - check that the both battery poles/clamps are really clean-no corrosion preventing GOOD contact, then check t'other ends of the battery leads - don't just look - take them off, clean them 'til shiny and the surfaces they attach to, especially the earth point and refit securely.

I am not familiar with the machine but Muz says the starter's a bitch to get at. if you possibly can check that you have a good clean connection to the starter pole.

Most machines pick up their entire power supply, for everything else, from the +ve pole on the starter - no other connections to the battery except to here?! - no life at the dash could well indicate no viable connection here, or as I say at the earth point on the chassis.
Also check the engine to chassis earth connections- off them and clean them.

Poor earth connections and poor connections generally, usually account for 90% of leccy issues on all vehicles.

[AndrewMawson]

It isn't fitted with an immobiliser is it ?

[Muz]

Druid is correct in that all supply goes to the starter, but there are 2 other lines coming off the +ive terminal going to the dash. You'll see a big thick red/black shielded wire going through the firewall which goes onto the starter. Ive never had one come off, but there is a first for everything ! Why Volvo didn't fit an inspection panel here is anyones guess Its right under the exhaust manifold if you put your hand down the back of the engine, the solenoid is on the top. It has a spade connector for the solenoid energiser on top, which is what you will feel first. Directly below that is a 14mm nut IIRC which has the thick wire attached to it going back through the fire wall back to the battery. Id be fairly certain the problem is elsewhere though.

How many hours has it done ?

[Muz]

Those 2 other wires go to the ignition switch, and power all the other bits such as start relays and timers for heater plugs etc, which is why its worth inspecting the starter switch, because if one of the mutiblocks has become detached,and fallen down, it will kill everything else, (assuming all your other connectors are good, earths etc)

[Loucastel]

Thanks everyone, it is a 2006/7 machine , no immobiliser, and has done 2100 hours ish, can't quite remember exact, I know it probably sounds like a really stupid question to you guys, but where are the earth wires to the chassis etc? when it comes to engines I am totally useless, will check out all the other suggestions over the weekend, at the moment I have the battery on charge, (just in case), also anyone know where I can buy a service manual for this albatross? I already have the parts catalogue and the user manual,

Big thanks once again all, will get back to you soon with a report,

[Muz]

The main earth to the engine is in a superb place .. right under the oil filter ... where of course it gets a good soaking at every oil change .. despite this .. ive never had a fault from this

[v8druid]

The main earth to the engine is in a superb place .. right under the oil filter ... where of course it gets a good soaking at every oil change .. despite this .. ive never had a fault from this

Muz is that engine to chassis earth, flat braid type, or round wire with terminals - still worth checking, even though ...... etc.!!

Thanks everyone, it is a 2006/7 machine , no immobiliser, and has done 2100 hours ish, can't quite remember exact, I know it probably sounds like a really stupid question to you guys, but where are the earth wires to the chassis etc? when it comes to engines I am totally useless, will check out all the other suggestions over the weekend, at the moment I have the battery on charge, (just in case), also anyone know where I can buy a service manual for this albatross? I already have the parts catalogue and the user manual,

Big thanks once again all, will get back to you soon with a report,

The earths could be anywhere Boyo - there should be one you can follow from the neg terminal of teh battery to some point on teh chassis - make certain it's clean and making a good contact - take it off and clean it! Be sure - no earth - nothing will work!!

Around the machine there will be any number of other wires terminated to the chassis, which forms the negative side of the return circuit to the battery for a lot of stuff.
There may even be earth continuity wires from, for example a rubber mounted cab/component to the main structural chassis - the engine is a classic example - rubber mounted and needs earthing.

Bad earths are a massive cause of a lot of leccy issues and can be a bitch to trace/rectify.

Not unusual to see a choke, throttle, or stop cable melted, on crank, 'cos the main engine earth had broken and it earthed through these cables - big amps on crank and got to return somehow/will find a way if there is an alternative!!

Otherwise, as Muz says you've a main feed off somewhere and there can't be too many main feeds on a lil' 'un.

[Loucastel]

Hi everybody and thanks once again, well after a very hot and exhaustive search found the reason why it is dead, underneath the drivers seat I found two giant fuses, on removing the cover I could see that all was not well one is a 50 amp and the other holder was marked 30 amp with a 50 amp fuse in, as you can see from the pics, not good, so there must have been a reason for this to blow like this so now have to find out what these fuses run and trace the fault from there before replacing the giant fuses, anyone have any ideas what the serve? without a workshop manual I'm stuffed, thanks once again guys.



.

[Muz]

Well someones put them in there for a reason, they aren't original AFAIK. I take it the machine had an owner before you ?

[Loucastel]

Well someones put them in there for a reason, they aren't original AFAIK. I take it the machine had an owner before you ?

Yes, I'm the second owner only had the thing about 4 months, up to now has worked great.

[Muz]

Yes, I'm the second owner only had the thing about 4 months, up to now has worked great.

Do you know what the previous owner used the machine for ?