Volvo EC15B wont start. Lights on but no one home..

[Mattir]

Leafed through the ws manual, but no trace of the immobilizer. Most likely it is somehow connected to the starter circuit if it is supposed to prevent the engine from starting.

[Noel_ Colledge]

The tracking device was definitely an after market job judging by the connections but it is all gone now.

I am trying to find an equivalent to relay RE5 to swap out. The marking on the one I have and the research suggest it to be a Bistable relay , Negative input and the one on my machine is a Ciam part number 0117 0716 5 pin. (Italian I believe).

Swapping out the other relays as well, all the pins and connectors are fine and not corroded, that said they are not expensive and takes something else off the table as running out of ideas to try.

Does anyone have a Bosch or similar ref number for this as I can't find a stockist . ( Just thought I would ask before i approached suppliers)

Didn't get to check anything else this afternoon as other jobs took over, but will have a nosey after work tomorrow.

Concerns me there was no voltage at the alternator pin, I doubted my self but thanks Mattir for confirming there should be, will recheck again tomorrow. Good news the starter motor is under the fuel tank, I thought it might be the other side, I will attack that tomorrow as well.

Hope you enjoyed your hot tub Mattir..

Big fuses under seat are fine Muz, one of the first things I checked.

[Muz]

If it is the starter.. I've had them fail long before any control gear on the electrics side

[Mattir]

RE5 is for the slewing offset. The tiny silicon push button in the left hand joystick operates that relay.

the starter is not behind the tank but beside it. By removing the tank etvc. you make a lot of space to access the starter.

And yes, the hot tub was really relaxing. Sitting in 39C water in rain is nice. Now I`ll go for a walk with the dog. -not the doug.

[Muz]

So two issues here then, keep it simple ... at first 1 st priority is to check all those earths as it will give power to dash but not crank if some of the grounds are poor also need to make sure the solenoid is getting energised on the starter

[Mattir]

So two issues here then, keep it simple ... at first 1 st priority is to check all those earths as it will give power to dash but not crank if some of the grounds are poor also need to make sure the solenoid is getting energised on the starter

Yes. This is easy to check. The other pole of the ohm meter to the battery minus and the other pole to the engine frame. The reading should pretty close to zero with a calibrated meter.

Will be offline for a while due to travel but will follow in case some help is needed.

Happy holidays

[Noel_ Colledge]

Ok you wizards of the digger world, Been away for a couple of days, but back at it, some progress made but not enough.

Firstly I have a numpty confession to make, when I checked the voltage to the alternator in a previous post I said there was none showing on the meter, I doubted myself and questioned if there should be.

Well I rechecked today and realised last time I had set the meter to AC and not DC, due to checking some 240v machinery with it last time.

Now I have checked it on DC, I can report we have full voltage at both the starter and the Alternator.

Having tracked down the starter behind and to the side of the fuel tank as advised by Mattir, I noted the terminals were at the other end and almost opposite the terminals for the generator. So not as hard to get to as first thought, Oh, for a bit more room back there.

To the progress, still awaiting the replacement relays so can't report back on them yet, checked the starter relay RE2 not sure of its purpose, but anyway power in and power out so working OK.

The good news is that When connecting a wire directly from the spade terminal on the starter solenoid to the live post on the battery the engine starts first time.

BUT,,, There are no hydraulics, movement etc and the engine cuts again after around 20 seconds. (about 10 the second time) replacing the wire to the live terminal starts it again no poblem.

Has this narrowed my troubles down a little, am I still to be concerned about the start stop solenoid, as it may not be holding power on the hold side??.

Again I don't have a wiring diagram so unable to test the order of operations here.

Earths by the way seem good Muz, took a wire directly from the battery post to the engine to check as well and no change.

If I had hair it would all be removed now..

Any further pointers please

Thanks

[Mattir]

Great news! Not in the sense that you have mafe breakthrough but been able to narrow downthe fault.

As it starts and runs for a while, actually for a specified time, we most likely have a safety circuitry issue. One of the safety circuits is relling the safety timer to shut down. The solenoid is ok as you can run for some 20 sec.

By directly feeding the starter solenoid, you skipped the safety microswitch and relay RE13.
I would suspect the safety microswitch in the safety port. Try removing enough stuff to locate the micro, check it`s wiring and function. That circuit is vital for you to get any hydraulics running.

Check the previous posts for the RE13. And measure the PA1 hydraulics pressure switch. It is clearcly accessible through the service hatch below the seat. You can miss it, as you have been hovering around in the compartment, you have stumbled accross it. 2 wires.

Most likely the tiny relays are ok, but it is good to replace them.

Writing this early morning in Osaka, Japan. :) waiting for the breakfast to start...

[Mattir]

Great news! Not in the sense that you have mafe breakthrough but been able to narrow downthe fault.

As it starts and runs for a while, actually for a specified time, we most likely have a safety circuitry issue. One of the safety circuits is relling the safety timer to shut down. The solenoid is ok as you can run for some 20 sec.

By directly feeding the starter solenoid, you skipped the safety microswitch and relay RE13.
I would suspect the safety microswitch in the safety port. Try removing enough stuff to locate the micro, check it`s wiring and function. That circuit is vital for you to get any hydraulics running.

Check the previous posts for the RE13. And measure the PA1 hydraulics pressure switch. It is clearcly accessible through the service hatch below the seat. You can miss it, as you have been hovering around in the compartment, you have stumbled accross it. 2 wires.

Most likely the tiny relays are ok, but it is good to replace them.

Writing this early morning in Osaka, Japan. :) waiting for the breakfast to start...

mafe= made
relling= telling
clearcly=clearly

[Mattir]

mafe= made
relling= telling
clearcly=clearly

RE2 is the glow plug relay.

One question: when you force started the engine with a jump wire, did you have the oil pressure switch wire connected? Faulty oil pr. sw might make the safety circuit to shut down the engine. Try jump starting the engine with the oilprsw disconnected and see if it the engine sings happily for a longer time...

[Muz]

Try jump starting the engine with the oilprsw disconnected and see if it the engine sings happily for a longer time...

And the temp sender too, simplify everything down to basics to eliminate all possible other sources because it seems to be more than one issue, and the dead mans switch needs double checking too .. thorougly .. get it bridged in the mean time to eliminate it too, and try your start sequence again and note any changes .. pull all the relays and re set them in case of dodgy connections .. there was one of them used to give me bother.. one of the black ones about an inch square, cant remember which one

[Noel_ Colledge]

Update...


Relays 1,3,4,13 have arrived and been changed , no difference in the results.. Worth a shot.

Still jumps OK from the spade terminal on the coil to live. It will remain running if either the oil pressure switch terminal or the water sensor are disconnected. But still no hydraulics. I have left the magic box connected throughout

Mattir, Can you please explain your comment about the safety micro switch in the safety port a little deeper please, I have no idea where this would be located or what to look for.

In case I have found it by luck, I have checked the two solenoids located deep on the hydraulics block and they both have 12v to them on both the Black and Yellow wires. I recently changed these anyway and described this on a previous post, but double checked. Not many hours have been used since

There is another item coming out the top of the block I am not sure about. Possibly the Hydraulics pressure switch you mentioned?. Sits on the top of the block, need a spanner to remove it, has a plastic cap and a red and a blue wire from it..????

I have 12v between the blue wire and the battery positive terminal but nothing to the red wire either with the engine running or not. And no continuity between the terminals, does not seem right.

Hope you enjoyed you Fish breakfast in Osaka, only got as far as Tokyo myself when I was traveling for business in a different life time it seems now.

Thanks again to all for the help so far, I feel a step closer, but still fear the old saying.

If the light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter, you are probably going the wrong way

[Muz]

Relays seldom gave me trouble in them selves , apart from their connections . The dead mans switch under the console powers a solenoid on a square block under the seat, if its overheated, it will be obvious, and not function. If you have double speed travel, you can replace the faulty relay with that one as it does a similar job on the double speed travel circuit .. you will lose hi speed tracking but at least you get hydraulics back

[Noel_ Colledge]

I don't have double speed travel on this model, wished I did at times when I need to travel over the fields.

So Muz, you are talking about the switch under the right hand arm? If this is so, I have checked this already and it seems to be working ok.

I was not aware of a micro switch actually under the seat, I will look to take this off and have a look.

Do you have any thoughts on the sensor on top of the hydraulic block? Should this show power both in and out or is the dead wire powered from some other relay/ switch?

Thanks again

[Muz]

I don't have double speed travel on this model, wished I did at times when I need to travel over the fields.

So Muz, you are talking about the switch under the right hand arm? If this is so, I have checked this already and it seems to be working ok.

I was not aware of a micro switch actually under the seat, I will look to take this off and have a look.

Do you have any thoughts on the sensor on top of the hydraulic block? Should this show power both in and out or is the dead wire powered from some other relay/ switch?

Thanks again

The microswitch is under the console on the left ... it controls a solenoid the opens a shuts flow for the hydraulics, its a square black afair with 3 wires to it that sits over a shaft on that block I mentioned, next to the accumulator, in fact I think its the same shaft that does double speed travel, and Im sure Ive posted about it on here before .. My god .. what havent I posted about these things