Volvo EC15B mini - engine removal & injection pump overhaul - plus ......

[jackpreacher]

Back again....

5. Removed all IP pipes and rechecked the injectors for tightness. My service manual still hasn't arrived so I torqued up the injectors by feel. Advice I was given years ago was to recheck major components' torque settings after a period of running at operating temperature. One of the injectors was fractionally loose.
6. Removed IP to check if all is ok with the repair - all seems fine so refitted.
7. Turned engine over briefly with the fuel pipes still removed so as to observe the IP throwing out regular pulses of fuel - it did. Refitted.
8. Refitted all the fuel pipes and took Doug out for a spin..........no, belay that.....took Doug out for a shuffle. He shuffled and did not cut-out.
9. No more time left to check over the cooling system as per Muz's directions. When the engine was on the bench a few weeks back I had taken the radiator off and briefly inspected it but didn't really look at all the fins etc. as Doug wasn't overheating before all the issues with the IP. Another lesson in why one shouldn't cut corners. On Monday I will thoroughly inspect the radiator and radiator cap.

For MadMike:

Paint Codes for the EC15:

PJ 2340090 YELLOW
PJ 2340091 GREY

I never got prices for the paint but the supplier nearest us is John Dixon Hire 0191 226 3678.

[jackpreacher]

Replacement fuel lift pump

Friday 17th November 2012

1. Drained engine oil and inspected filter.
2. New filter was still ok so refilled with 3.5 litres or so of 15/40 oil
3. Replaced 12v fuel pump with a brand new equivalent. Bench tested the old pump - it was still faulty with direct connections to 12vdc.

....ok, that's the serious, genius engineering done.........here's the actual madness now..

4. 'Lost' the oil filler cap behind the engine..it fell whilst I wasn't looking. Nay..it jumped deliberately.....took around 45 minutes to check my pockets, toolbox, oily rags, toolbox again, pockets again...finally had to conclude that it was behind the fuel tank - fuel tank out - and it was hiding in plain sight on top of the starter motor, where I had already looked a dozen times. Unnecessary fuel tank removal.
Familiar story

This pump cost 25% of what Mitsubishi wanted and 50% of what Volvo wanted.

I had to modify the fitting holes to accept the original mounting bushes and rubber vibration isolators. If the pump is mounted with direct metal to metal contact on the chassis then the engine vibration would reduce its lifespan to a matter of days. The pump must be held firmly but floppily in position - it's meant to be able to move.

The electrical connectors on the original pump had become so worn that they fitted like a stick in a bucket, but even worse was the actual wiring insulation was bare in places. This may not cause a direct short circuit between the +VE and -VE wires but it can cause extra impedance/resistance in the circuit which can drop the voltage to the component, in this case the fuel pump. It is surprising how wiring that looks 'ok' can be so below par that factors like temperature and humidity can affect the net voltage at the component.

I renewed all the wiring from as far back in the loom as I could comfortably work without dragging the engine out again. Fuel circuit is now 100% reliable..

EC15B Fuel Pump Replacement.jpg

More to follow later.....the fire has to be lit.

[jackpreacher]

The knowledge balance....

Excellent thread its turning into a everything you need to know about volvo 1 tonners thread

Dan, I quite agree, and we all know why...
....
....
....
Muz Drags Jack the Dumbass.jpg

[Muz]

need to get some paint ,dont suppose anyone knows where to get a match for the yellow stuff ?

You having me on ?

Yes theres a sticker inside the cab from 94 on models with all the RAL colours which are standard in any paint shop .. theres only two yellow and grey.

no wait Is this a trick question mike they did a special edition 'Ocean race' run which were blue (I have one of those still ) and if you want the code for it .. come get it cos no .. im not going outside to get you it Ive got a nice malt whisky .. from Brora IIRC .. Clynelish and its bloody marvelloush I'm in for the night

[MadMike]

need to get some paint ,dont suppose anyone knows where to get a match for the yellow stuff ?

[Dan]

Excellent thread its turning into a everything you need to know about volvo 1 tonners thread

[Muz]

On the bottom of the tank

Good. The HO volume is approximately 18 litres with the oil level halfway up the sight glass.


Yesterday Doug worked on the drive for 90 minutes. He cut out twice but that was the original Fuel Lift Pump cutting out. That'll get changed today.
Oh....his 'STOP' and "Low Oil Pressure' lights came on briefly so I'll also swap out the engine oil and filter. There was fresh oil put in when his engine was out the last week or so.That was 10/30 and he was running a bit warm so I'll put in 15/40 today. I have no idea what was in there when I bought him but he didn't run quite so warm.
TBC

More likely a blocked radiator core from shit and stuff .. now this could be the other reason I mentioned earlier why its cutting out.

You will need to draw back the oil cooler and inspect the radiator core, with a torch and make sure you can see all the way through it, all over it.

If not, you will need to get a steam cleaner with TFR and blast it clean. Be careful not to hold the jet too close to the fins on the core or you will flatten them over and damage it.

Where the radiator top hose goes into the cylinder head theres a hex bolt with a spade terminal on it. Sometimes its painted grey,same as the engine... but if its been replaced, its a brass colour ... that is the engine temperature controller ... if the engine gets too hot,and goes above a certain temperature it grounds the terminal on it, if this happens the ECU under the seat picks this up and sends 12V to the stop solenoid on the pump, shutting the engine down, and leaving those lights on , on the dash panel.

Another reason for overheating/or this problem is if the radiator cap isnt holding pressure allowing the water to boil although this is less common, and youd see the steam anyway..

BUT ...... just when you think you might have eliminated this problem Ive found the temperature thermistor has actually gone low in 'value' and started shutting the engine down sooner than it should do ... Imagine how long it took me to find that one ?



check the RAD first

[jackpreacher]

wheres the drain, is it on the bottom of the tank ?

On the bottom of the tank

Wazza's link above for a volvo EC13 (near enough same machine) says tank capacity is 17.7 litres

Good. The HO volume is approximately 18 litres with the oil level halfway up the sight glass.


Yesterday Doug worked on the drive for 90 minutes. He cut out twice but that was the original Fuel Lift Pump cutting out. That'll get changed today.
Oh....his 'STOP' and "Low Oil Pressure' lights came on briefly so I'll also swap out the engine oil and filter. There was fresh oil put in when his engine was out the last week or so.That was 10/30 and he was running a bit warm so I'll put in 15/40 today. I have no idea what was in there when I bought him but he didn't run quite so warm.
TBC

[Muz]

Probably that figure refers to the total volume in the machine ? .. wheres the drain, is it on the bottom of the tank ?

Wazza's link above for a volvo EC13 (near enough same machine) says tank capacity is 17.7 litres

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/ifram...tentId=7061487

you'll have to select it (ec13) on opening the link again Although it says engine oil on the header look down at the hydraulics bit

[jackpreacher]

If in doubt try the oil companies websites as they have quite a bit of info there ,a couple for starters .

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/ifram...tentId=7061487

http://lubematch.shell.co.uk/recomme...ge=5&brand=109

Thanks Wazza, good info there

Thursday 15th Nov 2012
1. Replacement fuel pump not fitted yet. I'm going to work Doug grading our 1/3 mile drive first
2. Doug started first time this morning and I heaped a couple of tons of gravel around - no problems.
3. There is no 3!

Hydraulic Oil Capacity
The EC15B manual states that the Hydraulic tank capacity is 33 litres.
When I drained the tank yesterday I followed the manual to the letter [RTFM] but could only get around 16/18 litres of oil back in the tank. Even then I had to take around 1.5 litres out to get the oil to the halfway mark on the sight gauge, as per directions.

[i] Is the actual oil requirement between 15-20 litres or am I missing something here?

It is a beautiful crisp day here in the fells of Cumbria.

ec15b Fluid Volumes.pdf

[Wazza]

If in doubt try the oil companies websites as they have quite a bit of info there ,a couple for starters .

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/ifram...tentId=7061487

http://lubematch.shell.co.uk/recomme...ge=5&brand=109

[MadMike]

We use an AWS 32 spec oil .. mineral base and never any problems .. that might be a castrol code though

[jackpreacher]

RTFM - Read the *$%@@?!! Manual

Did you put the right grade of oil in the Hydraulics Jack ? To heavier oil in cold conditions will cause that {I am Told }..

My answer to this was "...Hydraulic Oil is to spec'..'
WRONG

So, what happened ?
The H.O that I bought from our local Farmers Co-Operative is called UltraMax 46.

The recommended H.O for the Volvo EC15B is to the spec' ISO 46. There are others.

I, and the salesman decided that the "46" part of UltraMax 46 refers to ISO 46.
So I bought it and refilled the Hydraulic Tank.
Yesterday, because Doug was struggling to keep from stalling when a hydraulic service was called, I rang the manufacturers of Ultramax 46, Exol Lubricants, and the techie there informed me that it is the wrong HO - he was reading off a spec sheet listing all machinery with Hydraulics, including the Mars Curiosity Rover...... I may have made that last bit up...

Techie Bod recommended Ultramax MG 64 as their ISO 46 equivalent.

So, maybe my inexperience led me to the wrong HO, but it is confusing, isn't it?
Still, it's another lesson to RTFM.

This afternoon I drained all the U46 and refilled with ISO 46 equivalent. What a difference. Ok, Doug isn't 100% - he still has to shuffle around to turn but I managed to raise him up on dipper and dozer to inspect the track tension - both tracks at the same time

The 12v replacement fuel pump arrived in the morning post and after all the effort DOBSONs made to get it here I forgot to take it with me.....

TBC

[Muz]

Sorry, no photos yet but...

..on removal of the FLP there were bare wires showing on the weatherproofing/strain relief grommet. The pump was tested on the workbench with a 12v battery and proved intermittent. A bit of insulation tape was all I could to to try and stop the pump cutting out and, on refitting, it worked much longer - and then cut out


A new pump from Mitsubishi[Diamond Diesels] was quoted at £235.00 [plus FAT? I'm didn't ask]
Volvo Dealer - £100 [plus FAT] give or take.
Kubota Dealer [PV Dobson, Skipton] - £51.00 including FAT and next day delivery. [I swear that as I typed this line there was a knock on the door and the pump arrived]
Thanks again for the tip Muz, your forum has saved me a fortune so far - The tip was that a Kubota fuel pump will replace the Volvo one. The replacement pump is a FACET. It's American built.

Have just ordered the Hydraulic test kit [see Muz's previous reply].

Today, I'll fit the new pump and test Doug out. If he still cuts out then I'll investigate the relay/control board under the seat.

TBC

Well thats what this forum was started for Jack ! to help some of us poor sods from kept on getting ripped off by dealers and to share some tips .... I mean £235 down to 50 Quid ? its shocking isnt it ? *shakes head* And I could tell you a hundred storys like it

[jackpreacher]

Wednesday

Sorry, no photos yet but...

..on removal of the FLP there were bare wires showing on the weatherproofing/strain relief grommet. The pump was tested on the workbench with a 12v battery and proved intermittent. A bit of insulation tape was all I could to to try and stop the pump cutting out and, on refitting, it worked much longer - and then cut out


A new pump from Mitsubishi[Diamond Diesels] was quoted at £235.00 [plus FAT? I'm didn't ask]
Volvo Dealer - £100 [plus FAT] give or take.
Kubota Dealer [PV Dobson, Skipton] - £51.00 including FAT and next day delivery. [I swear that as I typed this line there was a knock on the door and the pump arrived]
Thanks again for the tip Muz, your forum has saved me a fortune so far - The tip was that a Kubota fuel pump will replace the Volvo one. The replacement pump is a FACET. It's American built.

Have just ordered the Hydraulic test kit [see Muz's previous reply].

Today, I'll fit the new pump and test Doug out. If he still cuts out then I'll investigate the relay/control board under the seat.

TBC