Ok so there was no No7 on the Injection pump shaft, but was there one on the valve gear shaft when you originally stripped that ?
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Volvo EC15B mini - engine removal & injection pump overhaul - plus ......
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Originally posted by Muz View PostOk so there was no No7 on the Injection pump shaft, but was there one on the valve gear shaft when you originally stripped that ?
Anyway, as far as the IP timing cam is concerned I've assumed it has been sweated onto the shaft but will keep an eye on the depth gauge - more details of that to follow with photos, in fact I'm 2 days ahead of this post so will make an effort in the morning to catch up.
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Engine Timing
Slip idler onto its shaft and line up the markings.jpg
Slip the idler onto its stub axle and line up the markings as shown.
Timing idler thrust washer.jpg
Slip the thrust washer on ready for the spring clip....
timing idler spring clip.jpg
Circlip pliers are so much easier to use than the old screwdriver and scraped knuckles...
lay on the timing cover gasket and o-rings.jpg
A few dabs of HT silicone will keep the timing cover gasket in-situ whilst laying on the timing cover itself. Be wary of not missing those 2 O-rings.
Lay on the timing cover.jpg
Bolt up the timing cover evenly before inserting the oil pressure switch.....
Insert oil pressure switch.jpg
I replaced the oil switch as an elimination before further testing of the 'electronic controls' later on.
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Injection Pump timing and shims
IP Shim Measuring.jpg
Measure the shim for the correct size. I'll post the procedure later on when I get to a scanner.
Place shim and IP in-situ.jpg
Install the IP pump [without sealant yet]
Temporary fuel connection.jpg
Rig up the fuel system. I added a 12v battery to energise the Fuel lift pump.
Checking the IP output at TDC.jpgTiming Case and bottom pulley timing marks.jpg
Observing the IP rotate the engine CW until you either observe Top Dead Centre on the bottom pulley markings or you 'feel' TDC by hand/eye. At TDC there should be a swell of fuel in the IP, in this case port no.2
Seal the IP timing gasket.jpg
If the fuel is emitted too early then retard the pump by adding another shim, and vice-versa if the fuel delivery is too late.
Now seal the shim and install the IP securely. There are no torque settings for this is my manual but I have already sheared 3 bolts so my advice is tight enough but not too tight.....
Connect IP fuel rail to Governor with tricksy little spring.jpg
Connect the IP fuel rail to the Governor with a tricky little spring and then that is complete.
Onwards.Attached Files
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Originally posted by jackpreacher View Post
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1327[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]1329[/ATTACH]
Observing the IP rotate the engine CW until you either observe Top Dead Centre on the bottom pulley markings or you 'feel' TDC by hand/eye. At TDC there should be a swell of fuel in the IP, in this case port no.2
I'd be wary of air ratcheting anything round there BTWPlease don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist
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Originally posted by Muz View PostSo cylinder two to set, and are you looking to align the case mark with which of the three on the pulley ?
1. I had two conflicting workshop manuals showing different positions for TDC
2. One of the manuals suggested the single mark was TDC for cylinder #1 but it was around 6 degrees late on my pulley.
More later...and some excellent news chaps.....
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Originally posted by jackpreacher View PostOne of the manuals suggested the single mark was TDC for cylinder #1Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist
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Da da da daahhhhhhhhhh.........
Originally posted by Muz View PostNormally thats the one
So I went by feel...and guess what?......WHAT??? He started first time, ran totally clean and with full power - he turned on the spot and the revs stayed up under hydraulic services. We just came in absolutely delighted......however, I'll continue the thread in the morning with the rest of the photos to show the rest of the rebuild and my thoughts on how the problems started. The first thing I'm going to schedule in is a regular lifting of the PTO cover and check the position of the timing cam.
TBC.
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Originally posted by jackpreacher View PostThe other manual extract suggested the middle of the 3..........
So I went by feel...and guess what?......WHAT??? He started first time, ran totally clean and with full power - he turned on the spot and the revs stayed up under hydraulic services. We just came in absolutely delighted......however, I'll continue the thread in the morning with the rest of the photos to show the rest of the rebuild and my thoughts on how the problems started. The first thing I'm going to schedule in is a regular lifting of the PTO cover and check the position of the timing cam.
TBC.Please don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist
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Originally posted by ianoz View PostThats Great to hear Jack .
Now get out there and dig some dirt .
Right, onwards with the rebuild....
The photos are in order of re-assembly and the text description is the title of the photo.....
Attach end seal and gasket .jpg
lay on starter mouter bracketvend plate.jpg
bolt starter motor plate up.jpg
attach and bolt up flywheel.jpg
install first part of flexible coupling.jpg
drop rubber coupling into place.jpg
place flywheel cover in position.jpg
bolt up flywheel cover.jpg
install hydraulic pump.jpg
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Originally posted by ianoz View PostBlue gloves must be breeding over there ,Muz has them too .
Onwards..
Insert Engine stop solenoid.jpg
Stop solenoid should be tightened up once it is in the right depth.jpg
IP to governor spring.jpg
IP timing camshaft depth gauge check 1.jpg
Underneath the Power Take Off [PTO] cover is access to the end of the IP timing camshaft.
The PTO is not really useful in this installation of a mini digger but its going to be useful to keep an eye on that bloomin' camshaft's possible drift.
If anyone has an E15 and has 5 minutes spare then I heartily recommend you check this. My camshaft is 9.8mm in from the engine casing...see next photo..
IP timing camshaft depth gauge check 2.jpg
insert the 6 pushrod cam thingies.jpg
Lay the head gasket on and ensure the holes are all aligned.jpg
Lay the cylinder head on gently - do not force-it will nest down under its own weight.jpg
Voila...jpg
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Originally posted by jackpreacher View Post
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1348[/ATTACH]
Underneath the Power Take Off [PTO] cover is access to the end of the IP timing camshaft.
The PTO is not really useful in this installation of a mini digger but its going to be useful to keep an eye on that bloomin' camshaft's possible drift.
If anyone has an E15 and has 5 minutes spare then I heartily recommend you check this. My camshaft is 9.8mm in from the engine casing...see next photo..
[ATTACH=CONFIG]1347[/ATTACH]
My next question is ........ whats your next project? we all want to know?
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Originally posted by Dan View PostMy next question is ........ whats your next project? we all want to know?
So, the next project?
1. There is the "Dance of Delight" that my much, much better half captured on Video last night after Doug started first time. I'll post that for derisive comments....but Dan, I don't care...it works!,,,
2. The microhydro project is Doug dependent...so we'll be cracking on with that ASAP.
3. There is no 3
More to follow.
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