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Volvo EC15B mini - engine removal & injection pump overhaul - plus ......

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  • jackpreacher
    replied
    Engine Timing

    Slip idler onto its shaft and line up the markings.jpg
    Slip the idler onto its stub axle and line up the markings as shown.

    Timing idler thrust washer.jpg
    Slip the thrust washer on ready for the spring clip....

    timing idler spring clip.jpg
    Circlip pliers are so much easier to use than the old screwdriver and scraped knuckles...

    lay on the timing cover gasket and o-rings.jpg
    A few dabs of HT silicone will keep the timing cover gasket in-situ whilst laying on the timing cover itself. Be wary of not missing those 2 O-rings.

    Lay on the timing cover.jpg
    Bolt up the timing cover evenly before inserting the oil pressure switch.....

    Insert oil pressure switch.jpg
    I replaced the oil switch as an elimination before further testing of the 'electronic controls' later on.

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  • jackpreacher
    replied
    Originally posted by Muz View Post
    Ok so there was no No7 on the Injection pump shaft, but was there one on the valve gear shaft when you originally stripped that ?
    Yes, but without a washer - so ineffective for what it should have been doing. At the time of strip down I didn't know what to look for, but now.......
    Anyway, as far as the IP timing cam is concerned I've assumed it has been sweated onto the shaft but will keep an eye on the depth gauge - more details of that to follow with photos, in fact I'm 2 days ahead of this post so will make an effort in the morning to catch up.

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  • Muz
    replied
    Ok so there was no No7 on the Injection pump shaft, but was there one on the valve gear shaft when you originally stripped that ?

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  • jackpreacher
    replied
    Installing the two camshafts and their Anti-Drift bolt/washer

    Insert the IP timing camshaft.jpg
    Insert the the IP timing camshaft...


    install anti-drift bolt and washer .jpg
    Install the bolt/washer which stops the camshaft drifting back out of the timing case. This is bolt no.7. It was missing on this engine when I stripped it all down but it has nothing to do with the problem of the camshaft drifting the opposite way.


    close up of anti-drift washer.jpg
    Note; the washer overlaps the bearing of the camshaft. I pushed the washer over with a screwdriver to make sure.


    Install governor on timing camshaft.jpg
    Install the governor. This was the original governor cribbed from the damaged camshaft.


    install valvegear camshaft.jpg
    Install the valve-gear camshaft and...


    installing ValveCam AD bolt.jpg
    ...install the same kind of anti-drift bolt/washer as previously described for the IP cam.


    All ready to be timed up.jpg
    All ready for the idler to be installed and the engine to be 'timed' up.
    Attached Files

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  • jackpreacher
    replied
    Originally posted by ianoz View Post
    Their stll Standing .
    Splendid...........leaks are called 'character features'....'selling points'.....

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  • ianoz
    replied
    Their stll Standing ..As it was second hand iron used ,Got a few leaking to sort out .

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  • jackpreacher
    replied
    Originally posted by ianoz View Post
    Jack , This has been a great thread .Your a braver man than I to attempt such repairs
    ....can't believe that for a minute - seeing all those projects you guys get up to...makes my E15 look like a kindergarten class. How are your new sheds faring with all that weather down there?

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  • ianoz
    replied
    Jack , This has been a great thread .Your a braver man than I to attempt such repairs .Can't wait to see the machine come back to life after its major surgery .

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  • jackpreacher
    replied
    Originally posted by Muz View Post
    .. whats the word on the IP timing shaft grub screw ?
    I had some conflicting information - John@DD sent me some scans from the L3E workshop manual which showed where bolt no.7 goes, but that only stops the timing camshaft coming out of the engine as opposed to my problem of the cam drifting towards the flywheel side. Anyway, the other information was word of mouth from an engineer who suggested the sprocket was sweated onto the camshaft. I'm going to go with that as the old sprocket took a few whacks to get it in the right position.
    This afternoon I took a depth measurement of the distance of the cam bearing from the edge of the PTO opening in the block - 9.8mm. By monitoring this depth it will be easy to see of a problem is occurring. More details and photos of this tomorrow

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  • Muz
    replied
    arrr .. its at that 'lemme atit' stage where you just want to get it running .. whats the word on the IP timing shaft grub screw ?

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  • jackpreacher
    replied
    Timing Plate

    Flip engine on to its side and apply dabs of silicone.jpg
    Dab some Hi-Temp silicone on to hold gasket in-situ


    lay Timing plate gasket on.jpg
    Lay on gasket..

    lay timing plate on the gasket.jpg
    Lay on timing plate



    bolt timing plate in place.jpg
    Tighten up the securing bolts.
    Attached Files

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  • jackpreacher
    replied
    Installing the pistons

    Insert Piston with correct orientation.jpg
    Insert the pistons into the cylinder making sure the piston goes back into the cylinder it came out of.....

    Attache piston ring compressor tool.jpg
    Attach the piston ring compressor tool......turn the allen wrench until the piston rings are compressed enough for the piston to be.....


    Tap piston in gently with wooden stick.jpg
    ...tapped into the cylinder with a wooden drift of some sort.



    Bob's le Oncle.jpg
    Once the first piston has reinserted flip the engine over so the bearing end caps can be fitted..



    Torque up the big end cap bolts.jpg
    ...et, Voila.......Bob C'est le Oncle....

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  • jackpreacher
    replied
    I just noted that the photos above show the piston big end caps installed. What a dope. It proves it's all in the editing.

    The pistons are installed after the crankshaft...photos tomorrow.

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  • jackpreacher
    replied
    Pistons, Timing Camshaft, Valve Camshaft and timing Cover

    Parts from DD arrived on Saturday, along with the nut I'd lost, then promptly found straightaway again this afternoon....

    Engine Block ready for Crankshaft.jpg
    Ok, here goes. Firstly the shell bearings for the journals have a squirt of new oil prior to...

    Checking crankshaft is within tolerances.jpg
    ..laying in the crankshaft after firstly checking it for tolerance with a vernier/caliper scale. It was bang in the middle of the range.


    laying in the crankshaft.jpg
    So the crank is laid in the block....

    Journal inner caps.jpg
    ..and the 2 bearing caps are installed and cranked up tho the recommended torque settings of around 50N.m..but check your own manuals if you do this.

    High temperature silicone on End Bearings.jpg
    I used a bit of high temperature silicone to seal the 2 separate castings at either end of the crankshaft....then..

    Install end bearings using rubber mallet.jpg
    ..a little rubber mallet persuasion positioned the castings ready to be bolted up.

    Torquing up the end caps .jpg
    Torquing up the journal bolts



    TBC

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  • Muz
    replied
    Ah yes .. there's a few that are missing on my kit too .. they could be found the other side of the yard fence !! I can hear myself muttering .. 'Dat fooker was an awkward cnut to get out .. dah .. dont need it and not wasting time gettin it back in' ... chuck .. ooooh.. its .... plant men confessions

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