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Volvo EC15B mini - engine removal & injection pump overhaul - plus ......
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Tuesday
Synopsis: Doug, my Volvo EC15B, is functioning fully as far as the 3 cylinder Mitsubishi diesel engine is concerned - the Fuel Injection Pump [IP] had failed totally but a few inexpensive parts fixed that. The only engine related problem that is outstanding is the 12v fuel lift pump which became contaminated with mucky fuel [see earlier in this thread]. The hydraulic performance is IMHO 60% of what it should be. Muz has suggested that this is possibly the main hydraulic relief valve[HRV] that needs adjusting. Otherwise all is ok. I'll start a new thread on finding and adjusting the HRV once the 12v fuel pump is functioning as it should.............and so.......
Today
.....whilst I'm waiting for the replacement pump I will remove the existing pump and see if it can be reconditioned without spending too much time on it.
The fuel pump makes a ticking noise when it's operating. The existing pump works intermittently. The pump is a very simple but reliabledevice that has to ensure fuel is supplied to the IP regardless of the angle that the digger is perched at. The symptoms that Doug has suffered since his IP was repaired are:
1. 5-15 minutes of smooth engine performance
2. abrupt cut-out
3. difficulty starting
4. tap the fuel pump
5. starts straight away
6. goes on for 5-15 minutes
....repeat process...etc
The fuel lines are clean. The fuel filter is new. The fuel tank is clean.
Photos to follow
TBC
PS: Can anyone tell me what fittings/kit I need to test the Hydraulic lines on the EC15?
Thanks
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Just to give you a heads up ... theres another reason why EC15's cut out which is an electrical problem, they tend to just shut straight down at any revs, due to a failure in a control box under the operators seat, theres a thread on here about it some where I'll see if I can find the link.
Here ya go
http://www.plantandconstruction.co.u...highlight=ec20
So if youve got the fuel system up 100% and its still shutting down, this will be the reason, well the main one, there is another but we'll keep it simple to start with.
As for your hydraulics you'll need this
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JCB-hydrau...item589726cf6d
Its well priced and perfect for your job, if you cant borrow similar off someone.
Then you'll need to contact Volvo with your serial number to find out exactly which block it is you will have ... whereafter they will send you a useless sheet of paper with all the wrong fittings .. thats volvo for ye
Joking aside .. if theyre better than my lot (cant be any worse) they'll send you a layout which you will need to post here so we can identify the correct spools, if they cant (and I wouldnt bet on it )
plenty to be getting on with Jack .. .. we'll get your digger running right thoughPlease don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist
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Wednesday
Sorry, no photos yet but...
..on removal of the FLP there were bare wires showing on the weatherproofing/strain relief grommet. The pump was tested on the workbench with a 12v battery and proved intermittent. A bit of insulation tape was all I could to to try and stop the pump cutting out and, on refitting, it worked much longer - and then cut out
A new pump from Mitsubishi[Diamond Diesels] was quoted at £235.00 [plus FAT? I'm didn't ask]
Volvo Dealer - £100 [plus FAT] give or take.
Kubota Dealer [PV Dobson, Skipton] - £51.00 including FAT and next day delivery. [I swear that as I typed this line there was a knock on the door and the pump arrived]
Thanks again for the tip Muz, your forum has saved me a fortune so far - The tip was that a Kubota fuel pump will replace the Volvo one. The replacement pump is a FACET. It's American built.
Have just ordered the Hydraulic test kit [see Muz's previous reply].
Today, I'll fit the new pump and test Doug out. If he still cuts out then I'll investigate the relay/control board under the seat.
TBC
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Originally posted by jackpreacher View PostSorry, no photos yet but...
..on removal of the FLP there were bare wires showing on the weatherproofing/strain relief grommet. The pump was tested on the workbench with a 12v battery and proved intermittent. A bit of insulation tape was all I could to to try and stop the pump cutting out and, on refitting, it worked much longer - and then cut out
A new pump from Mitsubishi[Diamond Diesels] was quoted at £235.00 [plus FAT? I'm didn't ask]
Volvo Dealer - £100 [plus FAT] give or take.
Kubota Dealer [PV Dobson, Skipton] - £51.00 including FAT and next day delivery. [I swear that as I typed this line there was a knock on the door and the pump arrived]
Thanks again for the tip Muz, your forum has saved me a fortune so far - The tip was that a Kubota fuel pump will replace the Volvo one. The replacement pump is a FACET. It's American built.
Have just ordered the Hydraulic test kit [see Muz's previous reply].
Today, I'll fit the new pump and test Doug out. If he still cuts out then I'll investigate the relay/control board under the seat.
TBCPlease don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist
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RTFM - Read the *$%@@?!! Manual
Originally posted by ianoz View PostDid you put the right grade of oil in the Hydraulics Jack ? To heavier oil in cold conditions will cause that {I am Told }..
WRONG
So, what happened ?
The H.O that I bought from our local Farmers Co-Operative is called UltraMax 46.
The recommended H.O for the Volvo EC15B is to the spec' ISO 46. There are others.
I, and the salesman decided that the "46" part of UltraMax 46 refers to ISO 46.
So I bought it and refilled the Hydraulic Tank.
Yesterday, because Doug was struggling to keep from stalling when a hydraulic service was called, I rang the manufacturers of Ultramax 46, Exol Lubricants, and the techie there informed me that it is the wrong HO - he was reading off a spec sheet listing all machinery with Hydraulics, including the Mars Curiosity Rover...... I may have made that last bit up...
Techie Bod recommended Ultramax MG 64 as their ISO 46 equivalent.
So, maybe my inexperience led me to the wrong HO, but it is confusing, isn't it?
Still, it's another lesson to RTFM.
This afternoon I drained all the U46 and refilled with ISO 46 equivalent. What a difference. Ok, Doug isn't 100% - he still has to shuffle around to turn but I managed to raise him up on dipper and dozer to inspect the track tension - both tracks at the same time
The 12v replacement fuel pump arrived in the morning post and after all the effort DOBSONs made to get it here I forgot to take it with me.....
TBC
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If in doubt try the oil companies websites as they have quite a bit of info there ,a couple for starters .
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/ifram...tentId=7061487
http://lubematch.shell.co.uk/recomme...ge=5&brand=109
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Originally posted by Wazza View PostIf in doubt try the oil companies websites as they have quite a bit of info there ,a couple for starters .
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/ifram...tentId=7061487
http://lubematch.shell.co.uk/recomme...ge=5&brand=109
Thursday 15th Nov 2012
1. Replacement fuel pump not fitted yet. I'm going to work Doug grading our 1/3 mile drive first
2. Doug started first time this morning and I heaped a couple of tons of gravel around - no problems.
3. There is no 3!
Hydraulic Oil Capacity
The EC15B manual states that the Hydraulic tank capacity is 33 litres.
When I drained the tank yesterday I followed the manual to the letter [RTFM] but could only get around 16/18 litres of oil back in the tank. Even then I had to take around 1.5 litres out to get the oil to the halfway mark on the sight gauge, as per directions.
[i] Is the actual oil requirement between 15-20 litres or am I missing something here?
It is a beautiful crisp day here in the fells of Cumbria.
ec15b Fluid Volumes.pdf
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Probably that figure refers to the total volume in the machine ? .. wheres the drain, is it on the bottom of the tank ?
Wazza's link above for a volvo EC13 (near enough same machine) says tank capacity is 17.7 litres
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/ifram...tentId=7061487
you'll have to select it (ec13) on opening the link again Although it says engine oil on the header look down at the hydraulics bitPlease don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist
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Originally posted by Muz View Postwheres the drain, is it on the bottom of the tank ?
Originally posted by Muz View PostWazza's link above for a volvo EC13 (near enough same machine) says tank capacity is 17.7 litres
Yesterday Doug worked on the drive for 90 minutes. He cut out twice but that was the original Fuel Lift Pump cutting out. That'll get changed today.
Oh....his 'STOP' and "Low Oil Pressure' lights came on briefly so I'll also swap out the engine oil and filter. There was fresh oil put in when his engine was out the last week or so.That was 10/30 and he was running a bit warm so I'll put in 15/40 today. I have no idea what was in there when I bought him but he didn't run quite so warm.
TBC
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Originally posted by jackpreacher View PostOn the bottom of the tank
Good. The HO volume is approximately 18 litres with the oil level halfway up the sight glass.
Yesterday Doug worked on the drive for 90 minutes. He cut out twice but that was the original Fuel Lift Pump cutting out. That'll get changed today.
Oh....his 'STOP' and "Low Oil Pressure' lights came on briefly so I'll also swap out the engine oil and filter. There was fresh oil put in when his engine was out the last week or so.That was 10/30 and he was running a bit warm so I'll put in 15/40 today. I have no idea what was in there when I bought him but he didn't run quite so warm.
TBC
You will need to draw back the oil cooler and inspect the radiator core, with a torch and make sure you can see all the way through it, all over it.
If not, you will need to get a steam cleaner with TFR and blast it clean. Be careful not to hold the jet too close to the fins on the core or you will flatten them over and damage it.
Where the radiator top hose goes into the cylinder head theres a hex bolt with a spade terminal on it. Sometimes its painted grey,same as the engine... but if its been replaced, its a brass colour ... that is the engine temperature controller ... if the engine gets too hot,and goes above a certain temperature it grounds the terminal on it, if this happens the ECU under the seat picks this up and sends 12V to the stop solenoid on the pump, shutting the engine down, and leaving those lights on , on the dash panel.
Another reason for overheating/or this problem is if the radiator cap isnt holding pressure allowing the water to boil although this is less common, and youd see the steam anyway..
BUT ...... just when you think you might have eliminated this problem Ive found the temperature thermistor has actually gone low in 'value' and started shutting the engine down sooner than it should do ... Imagine how long it took me to find that one ?
check the RAD firstPlease don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist
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Originally posted by MadMike View Postneed to get some paint ,dont suppose anyone knows where to get a match for the yellow stuff ?
Yes theres a sticker inside the cab from 94 on models with all the RAL colours which are standard in any paint shop .. theres only two yellow and grey.
no wait Is this a trick question mike they did a special edition 'Ocean race' run which were blue (I have one of those still ) and if you want the code for it .. come get it cos no .. im not going outside to get you it Ive got a nice malt whisky .. from Brora IIRC .. Clynelish and its bloody marvelloush I'm in for the nightPlease don't PM me for plant advice.. thanks .. Post in the forum where I will gladly help, as will many of our contributors.. as the info and responses will help everyone else, which is why we exist
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