Volvo EC15B mini - engine removal & injection pump overhaul - plus ......

[jackpreacher]

The knowledge balance....

Excellent thread its turning into a everything you need to know about volvo 1 tonners thread

Dan, I quite agree, and we all know why...
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Muz Drags Jack the Dumbass.jpg

[jackpreacher]

Replacement fuel lift pump

Friday 17th November 2012

1. Drained engine oil and inspected filter.
2. New filter was still ok so refilled with 3.5 litres or so of 15/40 oil
3. Replaced 12v fuel pump with a brand new equivalent. Bench tested the old pump - it was still faulty with direct connections to 12vdc.

....ok, that's the serious, genius engineering done.........here's the actual madness now..

4. 'Lost' the oil filler cap behind the engine..it fell whilst I wasn't looking. Nay..it jumped deliberately.....took around 45 minutes to check my pockets, toolbox, oily rags, toolbox again, pockets again...finally had to conclude that it was behind the fuel tank - fuel tank out - and it was hiding in plain sight on top of the starter motor, where I had already looked a dozen times. Unnecessary fuel tank removal.
Familiar story

This pump cost 25% of what Mitsubishi wanted and 50% of what Volvo wanted.

I had to modify the fitting holes to accept the original mounting bushes and rubber vibration isolators. If the pump is mounted with direct metal to metal contact on the chassis then the engine vibration would reduce its lifespan to a matter of days. The pump must be held firmly but floppily in position - it's meant to be able to move.

The electrical connectors on the original pump had become so worn that they fitted like a stick in a bucket, but even worse was the actual wiring insulation was bare in places. This may not cause a direct short circuit between the +VE and -VE wires but it can cause extra impedance/resistance in the circuit which can drop the voltage to the component, in this case the fuel pump. It is surprising how wiring that looks 'ok' can be so below par that factors like temperature and humidity can affect the net voltage at the component.

I renewed all the wiring from as far back in the loom as I could comfortably work without dragging the engine out again. Fuel circuit is now 100% reliable..

EC15B Fuel Pump Replacement.jpg

More to follow later.....the fire has to be lit.

[jackpreacher]

Back again....

5. Removed all IP pipes and rechecked the injectors for tightness. My service manual still hasn't arrived so I torqued up the injectors by feel. Advice I was given years ago was to recheck major components' torque settings after a period of running at operating temperature. One of the injectors was fractionally loose.
6. Removed IP to check if all is ok with the repair - all seems fine so refitted.
7. Turned engine over briefly with the fuel pipes still removed so as to observe the IP throwing out regular pulses of fuel - it did. Refitted.
8. Refitted all the fuel pipes and took Doug out for a spin..........no, belay that.....took Doug out for a shuffle. He shuffled and did not cut-out.
9. No more time left to check over the cooling system as per Muz's directions. When the engine was on the bench a few weeks back I had taken the radiator off and briefly inspected it but didn't really look at all the fins etc. as Doug wasn't overheating before all the issues with the IP. Another lesson in why one shouldn't cut corners. On Monday I will thoroughly inspect the radiator and radiator cap.

For MadMike:

Paint Codes for the EC15:

PJ 2340090 YELLOW
PJ 2340091 GREY

I never got prices for the paint but the supplier nearest us is John Dixon Hire 0191 226 3678.

[jackpreacher]

Pressure testing Kit

PS: The hydraulic pressure testing kit arrived on Friday. The next stage of Doug's revival will be checking over the hydraulic lines, pressure relief settings.
To recap, The LHS travel motor is weak compared to the RHS and the RHS is weaker than a Kubota KX91-3's travel motors which our neighbour, Farmer John, lent me to grade our driveway. What fun!!

Pressure Test Kit.jpg

[jackpreacher]

Monday 19th November 2012

More likely a blocked radiator core from shit and stuff .. now this could be the other reason I mentioned earlier why its cutting out.

You will need to draw back the oil cooler and inspect the radiator core, with a torch and make sure you can see all the way through it, all over it.

If not, you will need to get a steam cleaner with TFR and blast it clean. Be careful not to hold the jet too close to the fins on the core or you will flatten them over and damage it.

Where the radiator top hose goes into the cylinder head theres a hex bolt with a spade terminal on it. Sometimes its painted grey,same as the engine... but if its been replaced, its a brass colour ... that is the engine temperature controller ... if the engine gets too hot,and goes above a certain temperature it grounds the terminal on it, if this happens the ECU under the seat picks this up and sends 12V to the stop solenoid on the pump, shutting the engine down, and leaving those lights on , on the dash panel.

Another reason for overheating/or this problem is if the radiator cap isnt holding pressure allowing the water to boil although this is less common, and youd see the steam anyway..

BUT ...... just when you think you might have eliminated this problem Ive found the temperature thermistor has actually gone low in 'value' and started shutting the engine down sooner than it should do ... Imagine how long it took me to find that one ?



check the RAD first

Monday 19th November 2012

1. Checked Radiator core - all clear. Coolant level is correct.
2. Took Doug out to continue grading - he lasted about 20 minutes before cutting out - Oil pressure and 'STOP' lights did not activate prior to the shutdown but did remain on after the engine had cut-out. Last week the lights were coming on whilst the engine was still running - just blipping on and off but staying on longer as services were pulled.
3. On inspection of the engine bay his engine was very, very hot. It is possibly cutting out because of the temperature sensor being tripped
4. When he was working the engine struggled to maintain high revs when hydraulic services were being called and as the revs dropped against the hydraulic pump loading the exhaust became smoky, blue smoky......BUT when the revs were towards a fairly low setting everything seemed ok'ish.

My Conclusions

1. Cylinder head gasket may be leaking.
2. Coolant may not be circulating - possible water pump fault. The water pump was removed and checked 3 weeks ago - it was in good condition.
3. I can't think of anything else.

Action

1. Engine out
2. Dismantle radiator, cylinder head
3. Check cylinder head for warping.
4. Pressure test each cylinder.
5. If all checks out, refit and start up.

At least this time Doug is in the garage. I'll probably start this job on Wednesday in case anyone here can suggest other lines of investigation beforehand.
Still no service manual to refer to.

It's absolutely bucketing it down today.

TBC

[Muz]

Have you identified the sensor ? and is it still connected with the spade terminal or has someone pulled that off ? Because if its been disconnected , and the lead touches the engine or chassis, that grounds it.. telling the ECU to shut down the engine , the same as the thermistor going to ground when its over temperature

If the water isnt boiling and blowing out steam .. the engines still ok temp wise .. my money would be on the ECU having a broken wire .. which was discussed earlier .. identify that temp sender then I'll post on how to check the ECU and force it into fault to prove thats the problem.. if it is ?

[jackpreacher]

If the water isnt boiling and blowing out steam .. the engines still ok temp wise .. my money would be on the ECU having a broken wire .. which was discussed earlier .. identify that temp sender then I'll post on how to check the ECU and force it into fault to prove thats the problem.. if it is ?

....and judging by the state of the FLP wiring it wouldn't be a total surprise!

I'll check that out today.

[jackpreacher]

Temperature Sensor

The temperature sensor may be the culprit of the cutting-out scenario.
When Doug cuts-out he can usually be started within 20 seconds which seems a bit too quick of a recovery to be fully-functioning temperature sensor, but WTHDIK


The first photo shows the general location of the temperature sensor.
Thermister Location.jpg


This photo shows the wire connected to the sensor. This could be faulty.
Thermister Location Close Up.jpg


When Doug is fixed and the Heat Pump project [Groundwork] is completed I am definitely converting him to a 10HP DC electric motor

[Muz]

Well if the sensor is faulty .. you can just isolate it by disconnecting the wire, and tape it up securely so no part of the wire or connector can touch the chassis (which would cause a shut down).... and run and test again ..If it still cuts out, then its definatley the ECU under the seat You can prove this by moving the 6 wires that enter into the ECU.. my money is on the black one.. with the machine running normally you can move it .. or the red one and the machine will normally cut out.

[jackpreacher]

Well if the sensor is faulty .. you can just isolate it by disconnecting the wire, and tape it up securely so no part of the wire or connector can touch the chassis (which would cause a shut down).... and run and test again ..If it still cuts out, then its definatley the ECU under the seat You can prove this by moving the 6 wires that enter into the ECU.. my money is on the black one.. with the machine running normally you can move it .. or the red one and the machine will normally cut out.

Thanks Muz, I'll test the sensor/ECU tomorrow before any engine removal etc. The service manual should arrive this morning, it's a hard copy.

TBC

[jackpreacher]

The Genius

1. Service Manual arrived

The Madness

1. Left the Van's manual heater plugs switched on overnight, so, dead battery, so no travel, so no EC15B sensor testing.

TBC

[jackpreacher]

No progress since last week as the place has been rented out. The service manual is riveting......can't figure out the plot though.
TBC Tuesday

[Muz]

The service manual is riveting......can't figure out the plot though.

That bit comes when you need to buy parts

[Stock]

Spoiler Muzz shouldn't have given the plot away like that.

[jackpreacher]

Still "TBC"

I've not had the time to check out the temperature sensor yet so Doug is waiting until next Monday afternoon for his final bit of TLC before his next bit of TLC.