Volvo EC15B mini - engine removal & injection pump overhaul - plus ......

[jackpreacher]

Removing the pistons can be performed earlier in the strip-down or when the crankshaft is ready to be removed.

withdraw the pistons 1.jpg
Crack off the bolts that secure the connecting rod to the crankshaft and tap the piston out gently with a wooden stick from underneath.
sorry for the lack of photos here.

piston markings.jpg
Make a note of the orientation of the pistons and which pot they go in.

More next week - I'm waiting for seals kits and parts to arrive.

[jackpreacher]

on with the strip-down

timing marks aligned 1.jpg
How the timing marks should align...and as follows....

timing marks aligned 2.jpg

unbolt the bell housing mounting plate.jpg
Unbolting the bell housing flange plate will release the timing camshaft as well as the valve camshaft. There are 2 little O-rings which need to be captured on release.....see below:

capture the 2 O rings.jpg
Capture the 2 O-ings which sit on little protruding studs

withdraw IP camshaft.jpg
Withdraw the IP camshaft..

valve gear withdrawal.jpg
..and the valve camshaft. Note the damaged cam lobe.

capture a little washer under the camshaft opening.jpg
There is a little washer to capture just by the camshaft aperture..

Lift off the plate.jpg
Lift off the plate from the engine block.

Remove DipStick tube.jpg
Remove the dipstick tube and retrieve the small O-ring that seals it in it's sleeve.


remove crankshaft seal.jpg
Unbolt crankshaft seal and carefully remove

remove journal cap behind oil seal.jpg
Remove the bottom crankshaft seals.jpg
Gently tap/loosen the crankshaft journals at both ends of the engine block.

pulling Journals apart.jpg
Once loose they can be prised away. I found these to be a tight fit. I will add here that the journals[bearings] had no play in them whatsoever.

note the journal orientation.jpg
Make a note of the markings and orientation of the bearing caps before removal. This picture shows the bearing caps already having their retaining nuts 'cracked' off.

lift out the crankshaft.jpg
Lift out the crankshaft.

See Volvo EC15B Buggered for a similar job. Volvo do not supply the Crankshaft or either of the two Camshafts. Diamond Diesels are sending me a new IP camshaft with the sprocket [DIAGONAL teeth..most important as they do supply the sprockets with straight teeth also] and bearing for £95.00 inclusive of FAT. DD also supply the camshafts as new for £200 plus FAT but without the sprocket [£] or bearing [£20 plus FAT]. I have asked for a price for a secondhand crankshaft [within dimensional tolerance but from an old engine sent to them as a service exchange] and a new one. I'll post that here soon.

TBC

[jackpreacher]

etcetera

removing bell housing flange bolts 1.jpg
Remove all the bolts securing the bell housing flange plate to the engine block.

removing the overspeed govenor from the timing IP sprocket.jpg
The overspeed governor is released by undoing 3 bolts...

overspeed governor 2.jpg
...and some way of stopping the crankshaft rotating is needed

overspeed governor 3.jpg
Then the governor slips off the sprocket easily.

Idler Sprocket removal 1.jpg
Next the idler sprocket needs to be removed. You'll need a pair of Circlip [Spring Clip] pliers to do this..

Idler Sprocket removal 2.jpg
...and once off there is a large thrust washer to retrieve - I used my trusty, broken magnetic pickerupperer tool..

Idler Sprocket removal 3.jpg
Then the idler should just pull away from it's stub axle, as follows..

Idler Sprocket removal 4.jpg

Idler Sprocket removal 5.jpg
Job's a memory

Next, removal of the two camshafts - one for the IP and the other for the pushrods [valve gear]. Later.

[jackpreacher]

Well I dont know how we didnt lock onto this earlier I guess when you look at many photos a day ......that would explain a lot misfiring .. incorrectly timed injection, incorrect amount of fuel .. all assuming the pumping members are running in the same defective channel on the lobes ... but if its the case .. your injection pump isnt centred properly so that the followers run evenly on the lobes, and thats why it wore heavily in the first place I suppose, but why the hell would that be ? the pump bolts straight on ? there is no lateral movement ? It should fit perfectly ?

I think the lobe damage was caused by the IP plungers turning in their cylinders, hence opposing the camshaft and causing destructive forces to nibble away at the lobe....all because of those tiny little pins in the IP wearing down. Those pins wearing down could have been caused by ineffective lubrication or operator failure to change the oil filter, or maybe a weak oil pump (possible but unlikely).
Opinions chaps?

[Muz]

Ofcourse its bloomin damaged .. here is the photo






Well I dont know how we didnt lock onto this earlier I guess when you look at many photos a day ......that would explain a lot misfiring .. incorrectly timed injection, incorrect amount of fuel .. all assuming the pumping members are running in the same defective channel on the lobes ... but if its the case .. your injection pump isnt centred properly so that the followers run evenly on the lobes, and thats why it wore heavily in the first place I suppose, but why the hell would that be ? the pump bolts straight on ? there is no lateral movement ? It should fit perfectly ?

[Stock]

So a cam lobe is damaged................and a crank web scarred ...............did make one think something might have been dropped in that engine....................

[jackpreacher]

. did you think the injection pump rotor was damaged ?

Do you mean the camshaft that drives the IP? Cam #3 has quite a chunk missing. I'll take a close up tomorrow but I'm already pricing up a new one from Volvo, although there is one on EBay from the US for around £70.

[Muz]

You have a few don't you? You would have diagnosed the noise [clatter/knocking] in 2 seconds. Ah well, such is life.......

Six at the moment, for my troubles just now .. Ive owned about 16 over the years .. what camera are you using for your photos, have you taken any video with sound you could upload ?

Its the low power problem you describe thats troubling though I suspect you have missed something about its operation we should maybe double check once you've rebuilt ... did you think the injection pump rotor was damaged ?

[jackpreacher]

..continuing with the strip-down

Figuring out the timing 1.jpg
Figuring out the timing between the Valve Camshaft, the idler [smallest sprocket] and the IP camshaft [with the 3 speed governor weights].
I must be honest and admit that at this stage I hadn't even thought of lifting the pulley off the crankshaft to check any timing marks there. Luckily it all worked out...

Timing marks 2.jpg
I suggest that 'you' familiarise yourself with the timing before dismantling. The Idler sprocket [50 teeth] has '1' '2' & '2' stamped on it around the edge.
The IP sprocket and valve sprockets [66 teeth] have '22' stamped around their edges. The crankshaft sprocket, underneath the pulley, has '11' stamped on it.
To get the exact timing these numbers have to be aligned as in the next photo. I counted 49 full turns on the crankshaft before the timing alignments 'repeat' themselves.

Timing alignment.jpg
The timing marks on the crankshaft aren't really shown here.

More later

[jackpreacher]

You would be able to feel play on the big ends if it were evident, it would be fairly obvious, look for scoring on the insides of the shells which would indicate metal 'pick up' too ... and imminant failure.remember to keep the shells matched, if your taking the crank out, but if theres no sign of damage, I wouldnt, as you'll disrupt the main oil seals, which will need replaced on refitting.

No play was evident at the big ends or on the crankshaft journals. No leaks were evident at the bottom seals, however, I dismantled them all anyway to inspect the shells, which were all in excellent shape.

You have identified all the correct timing marks too
.

I remember you said earlier in this thread that you had to turn the crank a trillion times to get it right so I was ready for that. Nothing about this in the gold plated service manual though....nothing. In fact the manual doesn't have much engine detail at all considering the cost of it

Some of these engines run noiser than others with a noteable tick, which also sounds like crank shaft trouble, but it isnt, and Ive never really nailed it down to anything in particular.

You have a few don't you? You would have diagnosed the noise [clatter/knocking] in 2 seconds. Ah well, such is life.......

[jackpreacher]

Knocking usually comes from con-rod the gudgeon pin primarily,but I have seen a bearing degrade in the big end.....once or twice to causing a knock.
Had a cam bearing fail but that caused more of a diesel knock type of sound.............
.

That's where my inexperience shows up - I was hoping the clatter was diesel knock, but I don't know what diesel knock sounds like.
Is diesel knock just an issue with poor timing? Is it regular or irregular like pinking in a petrol engine?

[Muz]

You would be able to feel play on the big ends if it were evident, it would be fairly obvious, look for scoring on the insides of the shells which would indicate metal 'pick up' too ... and imminant failure.remember to keep the shells matched, if your taking the crank out, but if theres no sign of damage, I wouldnt, as you'll disrupt the main oil seals, which will need replaced on refitting.

If its had a sump pan problem, its possible it got punctured, and lost oil ,.. but not likely as they are quite malleable

You have identified all the correct timing marks too

Some of these engines run noiser than others with a noteable tick, which also sounds like crank shaft trouble, but it isnt, and Ive never really nailed it down to anything in particular.

[Stock]

Knocking usually comes from con-rod the gudgeon pin primarily,but I have seen a bearing degrade in the big end.....once or twice to causing a knock.
Had a cam bearing fail but that caused more of a diesel knock type of sound.............

broken rings maybe.......

Had a tractor make a funny noise once that came from a dodgy timing idler gear.............

[jackpreacher]

Gudgeon pin or cam bearing???????????????

what way are the timing gear idlers??

Does this help?

Timing marks 1.jpg

[jackpreacher]

engine Strip-down continued....

..so, removing the flywheel housing/cover

Remving flywheel cover2.jpg
The flywheel cover revealed a nice, unchipped, fully toothed flywheel

remove starter motor bolts.jpg
Remove the 2 bolts that secure the starter motor to the bell housing..

remove starter motor.jpg
..and withdraw the starter motor.

remove the flexible coupling.jpg
Remove the flexible coupling from the flywheel. There are no bolts or screws.

flexible coupling dismantled.jpg
Check the integrity of the rubber shock absorber...and be careful not to get any oil on it..

unscrew the flywheel drive shaft mount.jpg
Unscrew the 4 bolts that secure the 'driveshaft flange' to the flywheel...for want of a better description.

withdraw driveshaft flange.jpg
..and withdraw.

undo 4 bolts on the flywheel.jpg
Impact drive off the flywheel bolts and take off the flywheel.

bell housing removal.jpg
Same for the bell housing....remove the bolts and remove the bell housing.

Engine block almost dismantled.jpg
So now the engine block is partially dismantled.

More later.